Wednesday, 23 December 2015

Exploring the best sites in Temple of Heaven (Beijing)

Day 7

On Day 7, we bid farewell to Xi'an and prepare to return to Beijing. It had been an exciting trip filled with rich historical memory and witnessed the great beauty of nature at Huashan (华山) the day before. We checked out from our hotel very early in the morning and followed exactly the same timing and route to the Xi'an North Railway Station (西安北站) as the day before. We had breakfast at KFC again and takeaway chicken burgers as lunch for the train ride later. At 7.50am, we departed Xi'an via the high speed train and would take 5 hours plus to reach Beijing. Still tired from the previous day mountain hiking and the early wake up, we spent most of the time sleeping through the train ride.


Imperial Courtyard Hotel (北京花园十六号酒店)

We reached Beijing West Railway Station (北京西站) at 1.30pm. We dragged our luggage to the MRT station connected to the railway station, interchanged at a couple of stations before reaching Andingmen Station (安定门) at Line 2. From the station, it was another 15 min walk to the Imperial Courtyard Hotel (北京花园十六号酒店) located inside the Hutong area. The entrance to the hotel wasn't easy to find. It wasn't facing the main road, but facing a small alley branching from the main road. A sign board along the main road had helped us.


beijing imperial courtyard hotel
Entrance to Imperial Courtyard Hotel



Once inside the hotel, we could feel ourselves immersed in a traditional Chinese environment. The hotel is not very big, but it is well decorated, from its walkway to the interior room design. The furniture, bed and decorations in the room are all based on traditional Chinese theme. Yet the owner has integrated well with the modern facilities like TV, air-con and lighting.


beijing imperial courtyard hotel
View from the hotel reception area
beijing imperial courtyard hotel
View from the 2nd level walkway
beijing imperial courtyard hotel
View of the room
beijing imperial courtyard hotel
Porcelain decorations on the wooden shelf
beijing imperial courtyard hotel
View of the bathroom



Temple of Heaven (天坛)

By the time we settled down, it was already close to 3.00pm. We had only planned for one visit to a major attraction, which was the Temple of Heaven (天坛). The Temple of Heaven (天坛) is a place where the Emperors of Ming and Qing dynasties performed ceremonies of worship to the heaven for good harvest. The Temple of Heaven (天坛) consists of several buildings located in a huge park. We left the hotel and made our way to Tiantandongmen Station (天坛东门) from Andingmen Station (安定门). From the Tiantandongmen Station (天坛东门), it was just a short distance to the East Gate ticket office, which we purchased the through tickets (which allowed entrance to all attractions within the park).


temple of heaven tickets
Through tickets to Temple of Heaven
We entered the park via the East Gate and then walked through the Seventy Two Long Corridor (七十二长廊) towards the main attraction Hall of Prayer of Good Harvests (祈年殿). Along the corridor, we could see many elderly locals spending their time here chatting and playing cards. At the Hall of Prayer of Good Harvests (祈年殿), we could see the majestic circular hall on top of the 3 layered marble terrace. The hall itself has 3 layers of blue colour eaves and the entire building is made of wood only.


hall of prayer of good harvests
Introduction of the Hall of Prayer of Good Harvests
hall of prayer of good harvests
View of Hall of Prayer of Good Harvests
hall of prayer of good harvests

hall of prayer of good harvests
Interior view of Hall of Prayer of Good Harvests
Walking further north of the Hall of Prayer of Good Harvests (祈年殿), we could find the Imperial Hall of Heaven (皇乾殿) that is meant to house the God tablet.


imperial hall of heaven
Imperial Hall of Heaven
imperial hall of heaven
Interior view of Imperial Hall of Heaven
After this, we walked southwards along the raised walkway known as the Vermilion Steps Bridge (丹陛桥). At the end of the walkway, we arrived at another smaller circular building called the Imperial Vault of Heaven (皇穹宇).


temple of heaven vermilion steps Bridge
Vermilion Steps Bridge
This is the place where the imperial ancestral and God tablets are housed. The Imperial Vault of Heaven (皇穹宇) is enclosed by the Echo Wall (回音壁), which was intelligently designed to allow people located at opposite end to communicate to one another, due to the smooth passing of sound waves.


imperial vault of heaven
Introduction of Imperial Vault of Heaven
imperial vault of heaven
Imperial Vault of Heaven
temple of heaven echo wall
Introduction of Echo Wall
Further south of the Imperial Vault of Heaven (皇穹宇) is the Circular Mound Altar (圜丘坛), which is a 3 layered marble terrace with an open top. At the centre is the round Heavenly Centre Stone (天心石), which is known to resonate sound made from that location. Near the platform, we could also see the huge firewood stove used to cook animal sacrificial for the worshiping ceremonies.


temple of heaven circular mound
Introduction of Circular Mound
temple of heaven circular mound
Entrance to Circular Mound
temple of heaven circular mound
View of the Imperial Vault of Heaven from Circular Mound
temple of heaven circular mound
View at the top of Circular Mound
temple of heaven heavenly centre stone
Introduction of Heavenly Centre Stone
It was already late in the evening and close to the closing time. We made our way back to the East Gate, where we passed by the Seven Star Stones (七星石). There were originally seven large stones to symbolise the seven peaks of Mount Tai, but one more was later added by Qing Emperor Qianlong (乾隆皇帝) in the northeast direction, to signify the addition of the Manchurian clan as part of the complete Chinese nation.


temple of heaven seven star stones
Introduction of Seven Star Stones
temple of heaven seven star stones
Seven Star Stones (Now there are eight stones)


Silk Street (秀水街)

We exited the Temple of Heaven (天坛) and went to Silk Street (秀水街) by taking the MRT from Tiantandongmen Station (天坛东门) to Yonganli Station (永安里), which is directly linked to the Silk Street (秀水街). We first had our dinner at one of the restaurant located opposite of Silk Street (秀水街) selling Taiwanese braised meat rice set before the shopping.


beijing silk street
Logo of Silk Street

The Silk Street (秀水街) is now no longer a street, but a 6 storey high modern shopping mall. It is a very popular shopping area for tourists, where there are many retail shops selling different products like clothing, handbags, shoes, children toys, electronics, cosmetics, jewelries, antiques, souvenirs and the most popular being silk, which the place got its name. Personally I found the things sold here were overpriced, even after taking account the discounts from some hard bargaining. Eventually we only bought some souvenirs and spent most of the time window shop around the mall. After this, we took the MRT back to the hotel to call it a day.



Follow the links below to the other days of my China tour:

Day 1: Beijing (Yonghe Lama Temple, Shizhahai, Prince Gong Mansion, Behai Park, Gui Jie)

Day 2: Beijing (Tiananmen Square, Forbidden City, Old Summer Palace, Wangfujing)

Day 3: Tianjin (Italian Style Town, Nanshi Food Street, Drum Tower, Ancient Cultural Street, Quanjude Peking Roast Duck)

Day 4: Xi'an (Muslim Street, Drum Tower, Bell Tower, Xi'an City Wall, Defu Alley)

Day 5: Xi'an (Terracotta Army Museum, Da Ci'en Temple, Big Wild Goose Pagoda, Tang Paradise)

Day 6: Huashan

Day 7: Beijing (Temple of Heaven, Silk Street)

Day 8: Beijing (Great Wall - Badaling, Ming 13 Tombs - Ding Ling, Shizhahai)

Day 9: Beijing (Summer Palace)


Tuesday, 22 December 2015

One day independent travel guide to Huashan from Xi'an

Day 6

On Day 6, we embarked on the most tricky and challenging part of our China tour, which was an one day hiking trip to Mount Hua (Huashan 华山). It was tricky because it was difficult to reach Huashan (华山) from Xi'an, as we had to interchange between several modes of transportation before we could reach there. It was challenging because it was physically demanding to scale the mountain. Huashan (华山) is one of the 5 Great Mountains in China (the others are Mount Tai, Heng, Heng and Song), with its highest point at South Peak (南峰) (2154.9 metres). Huashan (华山) is also referenced in the famous "Sword Meet at Huashan" (华山论剑) of Jin Yong's (金庸) Chinese martial art novels.

There are several ways to ascend and tour the mountain. We have researched the routes and planned accordingly based on our physical fitness level and the available time we have. The general route will be to ascend the mountain via the cable car to the West Peak (西峰), then tour in the order of West Peak (西峰), South Peak (南峰), East Peak (东峰), Central Peak (中峰) and lastly North Peak (北峰). From North Peak (北峰), we will descend the mountain via the cable car there. This route is less strenuous as the overall route is descending (from Central Peak to North Peak). If one goes the other direction, that would mean climbing up a lot of stairs instead. It's definitely easier to climb down then climbing up the stairs. There are several dangerous passes on the mountain, but it is optional to scale them. There are safe alternatives routes and stairs with railings to these passes. For us, we won't be trying these dangerous passes.


huashan hiking map
My Huashan Hiking Route


Huashan (华山)

We woke up very early in the morning to catch the first train (6.30am) at Zhonglou Zhan (钟楼) to Bei Kezhan (北客站). We ate breakfast at KFC in the Xi'an North Railway Station (西安北站). We also takeaway some KFC chicken burgers as our lunch later at Huashan (华山), as there's not much food choices on top of the mountain. We departed the station at 7.50am via the high speed train on a half an hour journey to Huashanbei Railway Station (华山北站). Once we exited the station, we could see the carpark across the large square. Over there, we could find the green shuttle bus that will take us to the Huashan Visitor Centre (华山旅客中心). This shuttle service is free of charge and took around 20 min.


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At the Huashan Visitor Centre (华山旅客中心), this is where we have to purchase the entrance tickets to Huashan (华山). On top of that, we could also buy the tickets for another shuttle bus ride to either the cable car station to the North Peak (北峰) or the cable car station to the West Peak (西峰). We bought the shuttle bus tickets to the cable car station to West Peak (西峰). At the bus terminal, the blue shuttle bus goes to the cable car station to West Peak (西峰), while the gold shuttle bus goes to the cable car station to North Peak (北峰). We boarded the blue shuttle bus for another 45 min of bus ride to the cable car station. The place where the blue shuttle bus terminated is not the cable car station yet. We had to further climb several fleet of stairs before we reached the ticketing office. After around 20 min, we finally reached the cable car station and bought the cable car tickets.


huashan west peak cable car station gateway
Gateway to the Huashan West Peak Cable Car Lower Station
huashan west peak cable car tickets
Huashan West Peak cable car tickets
huashan west peak cable car lower station
Huashan West Peak Cable Car Lower Station


West Peak (西峰)

The entire cable car ride to the upper station is 4211 metres long and took around 20 min. Throughout the journey, we could enjoy the great scenery, starting from lush green vegetation to the precipitous cliffs nearer the upper station.


huashan west peak cable car
Leaving the Lower Station
huashan west peak cable car

huashan west peak cable car

huashan west peak cable car
Approaching the Upper Station
Once we exited the cable car upper station, we could feel the air is much cooler and thinner as well. We could also see clear directional signs (with proper English translation) to guide the visitors to various attractions.


huashan west peak cable car upper station
Entrance to the West Peak Cable Car Upper Station
huashan direction sign boards
Direction sign boards
huashan west peak cable car
View of the cable cars from the Upper Station
From the cable car station, we started the proper hiking at around 10.50am towards the West Peak (西峰). After winding up through the vegetation, we came to an open area where there's a path along the mountain ridge up towards the Cuiyun Palace (翠云宫), which is a Taoist temple. The "stairs" are simply steps cut into the ground. The pathway is around 2-3 metres wide with iron chains on both sides as the barrier.


huashan west peak ridge path
Ridge path way up West Peak
huashan west peak cuiyun palace
West Peak Cuiyun Palace
Around the Cuiyun Palace (翠云宫), there are several large rocks where visitors could climb onto them. The highest point (2086.2 metres) of West Peak (西峰) is located at one of the rock. The view here is magnificent, overlooking at other lower mountain peaks.


huashan west peak rock
Visitors climbing up the big rock at West Peak
huashan west peak
View from West Peak
We rested at Cuiyun Palace (翠云宫) for a while before we descended through the same mountain ridge path and turned to the other direction towards the South Peak (南峰).


huashan west peak
View of West Peak en-route South Peak


South Peak (南峰)

Along the way, we passed by a place with a furnace, known as the Immortality Pill Making Furnace (炼丹炉), which is not too far away from the highest point (2154.9 metres) of South Peak (南峰). 


huashan south peak immortality pill making furnace
Immortality Pill Making Furnace
huashan south peak immortality pill making furnace introduction
Introduction to the Immortality Pill Making Furnace
We climbed to the highest point and took photos together with the tablet. From there, we also had a good view of the West Peak (西峰).


huashan south peak introduction
Introduction to South Peak
huashan south peak highest point tablet
South Peak highest point tablet
huashan west peak
View of West Peak from South Peak
We did not stay long at the highest point as it was quite crowded. We continued our journey towards the East Peak (东峰), which is located quite far away from the South Peak (南峰).


huashan east peak
View of ridge path way uphill towards the East Peak
We passed by another temple known as the Heavenly South Gate (南天门), which leads to the famous attraction of the South Peak (南峰), the Cliffside Plank Path (长空栈道). The Cliffside Plank Path (长空栈道) is touted as the world's most dangerous trail. From what I understand, anyone who wants to attempt this trail must rent a harness that comes with two carabiner hooks, which one of them must be hooked to the "safety line" along the trail at any point of time. One has to descend down a series of iron bar ladder before reaching the plank path that skirts around the perimeter of the cliff. The wooden plank path is around one foot wide and is only supported by metal bars nailed onto the cliff. To make things even more challenging, the plank path is two-way traffic, one has to criss cross with other people who are moving in the opposite direction. At the end of the plank path is a small shrine, after which one has to turn back using the same path.

huashan south peak cliffside plank path
Route down to the Plank Path (Photo from Rolling Stone Chronicles)
huashan south peak cliffside plank path
Huashan South Peak Cliffside Plank Path (Photo from Gopole.com)
When we reached the location, there's already a long queue of daredevils waiting to challenge the trail.


huashan south peak cliffside plank path
Long queue waiting to challenge the Cliffside Plank Path
We only took pictures around the area and continued to descend downhill. We found some benches along way and decided to rest and have our lunch (the takeaway KFC chicken burger).


East Peak ()

The way to the East Peak (东峰) is a long uphill hike, which we had to make several stops along the way to rest our aching legs.


huashan east peak chess pavilion
View of East Peak and the Chess Pavilion (right)
huashan east peak
Scenic view en-route East Peak
huashan east peak chess pavilion
Chess Pavilion
huashan east peak chess pavilion
Two trekkers en-route Chess Pavilion
Upon reaching the East Peak (东峰), highest point at 2096.2 metres), one could see the scenic Chess Pavilion (下棋亭), standing alone on top of the cliff. The only way to get to the Chess Pavilion (下棋亭) is to pass through the "Sparrowhawk Flips Over" (鹞子翻身), which is another dangerous cliff path. One would also need to rent a harness to descend down the cliff.


huashan east peak chess pavilion sparrowhawk flips over
Route down the "Sparrowhawk Flips Over"
After this, we proceeded to the Central Peak (中峰), which the route is generally descending from here onward.


Central Peak ()

Along the way, we passed by another interesting pass known as the Cloud Ladder (云梯), which is an almost vertical ladder pass with steps carved from the stone wall. Over here, there's no harness used and visitor has to hold on tight to the iron chains by the sides while climbing. We did not attempt this bypass using the proper staircase beside.

huashan cloud ladder
Top view of Cloud Ladder
huashan cloud ladder
Bottom view of Cloud Ladder
The Central Peak (中峰) itself, highest point at 2037.9 metres, is surrounded by the other 3 peaks, thus there's no great scenery here. There's only one Taoist temple called the Jade Maiden Temple (玉女祠).


huashan central peak
Introduction to Central Peak
huashan central peak
Huashan Central Peak
We had a long rest along the stairs, where we saw many visitors trekking up from the direction of the North Peak (北峰). After the rest, we continued the journey to the Golden Lock Pass (金锁关), where one could easily observe the large quantities of golden locks with red ribbons locked to two sides of the iron chains. Couples could buy the locks and inscribe their names on them as a symbol of everlasting love.


huashan golden lock pass
Golden Lock Pass
After the pass, it is all the way descending towards the North Peak (北峰).


North Peak ()

Along the way, we passed by the Five Cloud Peak Hotel before the famous Cang Long Ling (苍龙岭), also known as the "Black Dragon Ridge". It is a very narrow pathway carved onto the mountain ridge, with steep cliffs on both sides. We did not use this pass, instead going down using another alternative path by the side of the ridge.


huashan golden lock pass
Scenic view en-route North Peak
huashan black dragon ridge cang long ling
View of the Black Dragon Ridge
Upon reaching the foot of the ridge, we finally had a sight of our end point at the North Peak Cable Car Upper Station.


huashan north peak cable car station
View of the North Peak Cable Car Upper Station
It was another several hundred metres of walk before we reached the North Peak (北峰), highest point at 1614.9 metres. We made the last rest stop and after which we decided to bid farewell to Huashan (华山). We had completed the hike to all the 5 peaks within 5 hours, at the expense of our weary and aching pair of legs.


huashan north peak cable car tickets
North Peak cable car tickets


Back to Xi'an (西安)

We bought the cable car tickets and descended to the lower station. The cable car ride is much shorter than the one at West Peak (西峰), only around 8 min. At the cable car lower station, we purchased another set of shuttle bus tickets and ride onto the gold shuttle bus back to the Huashan Visitor Centre (华山旅客中心). From the Visitor Centre carpark, we took the free shuttle bus back to the Huashanbei Railway Station (华山北站). As we had already purchased our train tickets, it was still very early. We had an early dinner at one of the noodle restaurant just outside of the railway station. After the dinner, we waited some more before taking the high speed train back to Xi'an, followed by the Metro to our hotel area. It was still early and we decided to shop for souvenirs at the Muslim Street (回民街) before we depart Xi'an the next day.


Follow the links below to the other days of my China tour:

Day 1: Beijing (Yonghe Lama Temple, Shizhahai, Prince Gong Mansion, Behai Park, Gui Jie)

Day 2: Beijing (Tiananmen Square, Forbidden City, Old Summer Palace, Wangfujing)

Day 3: Tianjin (Italian Style Town, Nanshi Food Street, Drum Tower, Ancient Cultural Street, Quanjude Peking Roast Duck)

Day 4: Xi'an (Muslim Street, Drum Tower, Bell Tower, Xi'an City Wall, Defu Alley)

Day 5: Xi'an (Terracotta Army Museum, Da Ci'en Temple, Big Wild Goose Pagoda, Tang Paradise)

Day 6: Huashan

Day 7: Beijing (Temple of Heaven, Silk Street)

Day 8: Beijing (Great Wall - Badaling, Ming 13 Tombs - Ding Ling, Shizhahai)

Day 9: Beijing (Summer Palace)