Monday 14 December 2015

Free and easy travel to the great historical sites of Forbidden City and Old Summer Palace

Day 2

Tiananmen Square (天安门广场)

We woke up early in the morning, had a simple breakfast before we set off for the second day in Beijing, starting with Tiananmen Square. We took the MRT from Beixingqiao Station (北新桥) to Tiananmen East Station (天安门东). The security at the entrance to the Square is tight. The authorities would even check the papers I had in my bag, probably to make sure we don't bring anything into the Square to protest. The square is very big, one of the largest city square in the world, and is flanked by many important icons, such as the Tiananmen Gate (天安门) (which the square is named after), Monument to the People's Heroes (人民英雄纪念碑), Mausoleum of Mao Zedong (毛主席纪念堂), National Museum of China (中国国家博物馆) and The Great Hall of the People (人民大会堂). There's nothing much to do here, other than taking photos against different backdrops and to view the Flag Raising Ceremony (which I did not attend, because it happens very early in the morning). We spent half an hour here strolling around and taking photos, before we head to the Forbidden City through the Tiananmen Gate (天安门).


tiananmen square
Tiananmen Square - Tiananmen Gate at background
tianmen square
Tiananmen Square

468*60 


Forbidden City (故宫博物院)

The Forbidden City, now known as the Palace Museum (故宫博物院), is the former imperial palace for the 24 emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasty. Along with the Tiananmen Square, it is considered as the must-visit attraction in Beijing. The entire palace is huge and comprises of numerous halls of different sizes for different purposes, such as residence, ceremonies, state meetings etc. The area can be divided into the Central Axis, East Wing and West Wing. Tourists can only enter the palace via the south (from the Meridian Gate 午门) and exit from the north Gate of Divine Prowess (神武门), located along the Central Axis. From the Tiananmen Gate (天安门), we walked north and just before the Meridian Gate (午门), we reached the ticket office area to buy the entrance tickets. After the security check in front of the Meridian Gate (午门), we entered the palace proper.


forbidden city ticket
Forbidden City entrance ticket
forbidden city meridian gate
Meridian Gate
The first place that greeted us was the Taihemen Square (太和门广场). We could see a small river with 5 bridges across, which are known as the Inner Golden River Bridges (内金水桥). In the past, the central bridge was used exclusively by the emperor only. At the background is the Gate of Supreme Harmony (太和门), which leads to the Taihedian Square (太和殿广场).


taihemen square inner golden river bridges
Taihemen Square - Inner Golden River Bridges
The Taihedian Square (太和殿广场) is the largest square within the palace, where 3 grand halls are located, Hall of Supreme Harmony (太和殿), Hall of Middle Harmony (中和殿) and Hall of Preserving Harmony (保和殿). Together, they form the Outer Court area. The Hall of Supreme Harmony (太和殿) stands majestically on a three tier marble terrace and is also the largest and tallest building in the palace. Inside the hall (which is out of bound for tourists), we could see the emperor's throne, along with the exquisite carvings and decorations on the pillars and roof. This is the place where the emperor received high rank officials and host important ceremonies.


hall of supreme harmony
Hall of Supreme Harmony
hall of supreme harmony interior
Interior of Hall of Supreme Harmony
The other 2 halls are smaller, but equally majestic as well.

hall of middle harmony interior
Interior of Hall of Middle Harmony
hall of preserving harmony interior
Interior of Hall of Preserving Harmony
After this area, we walked to the East Wing where there are 2 galleries, Treasure Gallery and the Clock and Watch Gallery, which required separate entrance tickets. We decided to give them a miss and rested near the souvenir shops around the Gate of Heavenly Purity (乾清门).

We then entered the Inner Court via the Gate of Heavenly Purity (乾清门) and where there are 3 more halls. The Palace of Heaven Purity (乾清宫) was the residence of the emperors until Qing Emperor Yongzheng when he shifted his residence to the Hall of Mental Cultivation (养心殿).


palace of heaven purity
Palace of Heaven Purity
palace of heaven purity intro
Palace of Heaven Purity Intro
palace of heaven purity
Interior of Palace of Heaven Purity
Behind it is the Hall of Union and Peace (交泰殿), which served as a storage place for the treasures and ceremonial items.


hall of union and peace intro
Hall of Union and Peace Intro
hall of union and peace interior
Interior of Hall of Union and Peace
Lastly the Palace of Earth Tranquility (坤宁宫), which served as the empress residence during the Ming dynasty and then as nuptial chamber during the Qing dynasty.


palace of earth tranquility
Palace of Earth Tranquility
After this, we walked to the East Wing again. Over here, several halls were converted to house the Bronze Gallery, and we could also see the 6 Eastern Palaces. After completing the East Wing, we went over to the West Wing. The most notable hall over here is the Hall of Mental Cultivation (养心殿). This was the residence for all the Qing emperors from Emperor Yongzheng (雍正皇帝) onward. On the east chamber, one could see the famous place where the 2 Empress Dowagers Ci'xi and Ci'an (慈禧 慈安太后) used to rule the court behind the curtain, during Emperor Tongzhi's (同治皇帝) era.

hall of mental cultivation
Hall of Mental Cultivation
hall of mental cultivation intro
Hall of Mental Cultivation Intro
hall of mental cultivation interior
Interior of Hall of Mental Cultivation
hall of mental cultivation tongzhi empress dowager
Hall of Mental Cultivation - Place where the 2 Empress Dowager reign
At the West Wing, we could also see the 6 Western Palaces. The famous one includes the Palace of Gathered Elegance (储秀宫), which was the former residence of Empress Dowager Ci'xi (慈禧太后).


palace of gathered elegance
Palace of Gathered Elegance
palace of gathered elegance
Palace of Gathered Elegance Intro
We visited the last area in the palace, which is the imperial garden. The garden itself is not very big and we did not stay long and eventually exited the palace via the Gate of Divine Prowess (神武门) at the rear. In total, we had spent around 4 hours in the palace.


gate of divine prowess
Gate of Divine Prowess
Out of the palace, it was not a convenient place to travel to other sites. We had a long walk to Xisi Station (西四) and had lunch along one of the restaurant specialized on Jiangnan noodles.


Old Summer Palace (圆明园)

We took the MRT to the Yuanmingyuan Park Station (圆明园). The station is located at the south entrance of the Old Summer Palace (圆明园). We bought our tickets here and entered the park.


old summer palace ticket
Old Summer Palace entrance ticket
The whole area is made of 3 gardens, Garden of Perfect Brightness (圆明园), Garden of Eternal Spring (长春园) and Elegant Spring Garden (绮春园), which combined is around 5 times the size of the Forbidden City! During its glorious days, it was hailed as the "Garden of Gardens" for its extensive gardens and architectural buildings. Its fortune suffered a tragic end when it was destroyed by the British-French forces during Second Opium War. The park we see now is never restored to its former glorious days and ruins can still be seen today. The south entrance is located in the Elegant Spring Garden (绮春园) and we started our tour here. Walking along, we could see reconstructed pavilions, bridges, rivers, ponds and flowers etc.


old summer palace lake
Lake near the entrance
old summer palace ruined bridge
Ruined Stone Arch Bridge
old summer palace ruined bridge
Ruined Arch Bridge Intro
Tourists could board the boats and travel to other sites within the park through the lakes and waterways. At the intersection between the Garden of Eternal Spring (长春园) and Elegant Spring Garden (绮春园), there's an exhibition about the 12 zodiac animal bronze head. It is an exhibition about the destruction of the palace and the looting of the 12 bronze heads that were once part of the Haiyantang (海晏堂) located in the Western Mansions (西洋楼) section. Jackie Chan's movie CZ12 (十二生肖) is loosely based on this theme. In the exhibition, we could see the replica of the 12 bronze heads. From there, we also learnt that 7 of the bronze heads were already returned to China, while the other 5 remained missing to date.


old summer palace haiyantang exhibition
Haiyantang Exhibition
old summer palace haiyantang dragon bronze head
Replica of the Dragon Bronze Head
We walked further north and reached the Western Mansions (西洋楼) section, which is located at the northern end of the Garden of Eternal Spring (长春园). The Western Mansions (西洋楼) section is the most popular attraction within the Old Summer Palace (圆明园), because this is where most of the ruins of the stone buildings still remains. The place got its name because this area used to be occupied with European style architectural buildings, pavilions and fountains. We entered the section from the west and exit on the east end.


old summer palace western mansions
Introduction to the Western Mansions area
old summer palace xieqiqu
Ruins of Xieqiqu
old summer palace huanghuazhen
Huanghuazhen
old summer palace huanghuazhen
Huanghuazhen Intro
old summer palace haiyantang replicas
Replicas of the 12 Chinese Zodiac Animals at Haiyantang
old summer palace dashuifa
Ruins of Dashuifa
After the tour here, we decided to make our back to the south entrance. We had no more energy or time to explore the other Garden of Perfect Brightness (圆明园). Walking south, we reached another exhibition called the Heyday Panorama Model, which shows a miniature panorama view of the entire palace before its destruction. I was astonished by the scale of the entire palace, numerous Chinese style architectural buildings and bridges that once stood were no longer seen in the park now. We could also see the original looks of the Western Mansions (西洋楼) from the model.


old summer palace heyday panorama model
Old Summer Palace Heyday Panorama Model
old summer palace heyday panorama model
Zoom in on the models
old summer palace heyday panorama model xieqiqu
Model of Xieqiqu
old summer palace heyday panorama model huanghuazhen
Model of Huanghuazhen
old summer palace heyday panorama model haiyantang
Model of Haiyantang
old summer palace heyday panorama model yuanyingguan
Model of Yuanyingguan in the center. Haiyantang is on the right.
We eventually exited the park from the south entrance where we originally came from. From there, we took the MRT to Wangfujing Station (王府井).


Wangfujing (王府井)

By the time we reached Wangfujing Station (王府井), it was already evening and its time for dinner. Wangfujing (王府井) is a very popular shopping area in Beijing. It comprises of several streets and flanked by large shopping malls, hotels, shops, cafe and restaurants. On the west side of the main street, there's a snack street that sells all sort of food and snacks from different parts of China.


wangfujing street
Wangfujing Street
The street snacks here did not interest us and eventually we went to a restaurant in one of the mall (I cannot recall which mall was it). After dinner, we visited the New China Children Store (新中国儿童用品商店), which is a 6 level mall selling all kinds of children merchandise. Back to the main street, we also bought matcha from a tea shop. After this, it was getting late and we headed back to our hotel to call it a day.




Sunday 6 December 2015

One day free and easy travel in Beijing City

Day 1

We took an overnight flight from Singapore to Beijing directly and reached Beijing Capital International Airport Terminal 3 at 7.15am. The queue at the immigration clearance was quite long and took us some time to get through. After that, we took an internal train to the main complex, where we collected our luggage. From there, we exited the area and easily found the directional sign leading us to the Airport Express Railway to the city. We wanted to buy the Yikatong (一卡通) at the station here, but the authorities said they have run out of the cards, so we had to buy the single trip ticket instead. Yikatong (一卡通) is Beijing's stored-value smart card (similar to London's Oyster Card and Hong Kong's Octopus Card), which can be used on MRT, taxi, buses, intra city trains, and even in supermarkets and other shops. If you travelling throughout Beijing using their public transportation, then you are recommended to buy one, which you can refund the remaining amount before you leave Beijing.

The Airport Express Railway terminates at Dongzhimen Station (东直门), which is also an interchange station for the MRT Line 2. We bought our Yikatong (一卡通) here and continued the journey to our hotel by the MRT. The security at Beijing's MRT stations was tight. Every passenger was required to have their handbags or luggage scanned (just like in the airport) before entering the platform level. If the authorities found that we have drinking bottles inside, they will ask us to take it out to visually inspect, and they may also ask us to have a sip of the content inside to prove that it's non-toxic! The MRT Line 1 and 2 are the oldest lines in Beijing, thus it is common to find that there's no escalator between the ticketing level and the train platform level! We had to hand carry our heavy luggage and slowly walked up and down the staircase. In general, the stations and trains are clean, and they have English translation for all directional sign boards, thus it shouldn't be a problem for tourist who don't know Mandarin to travel using the MRT.


Nostalgia Hotel Beijing Yonghe Lama Temple (时光漫步怀旧主题酒店-北京雍和宫店)

We made our way to Beixingqiao Station (北新桥) after transfer via Yonghe Lama Temple Station (雍和宮). From there, we walked for around 15 minutes and reached our hotel, Nostalgia Hotel Beijing Yonghe Lama Temple (时光漫步怀旧主题酒店-北京雍和宫店). The hotel is located quite deep inside the Fangjia Hutong (方家胡同), thus initially we had a difficult time to locate it. While walking through the hutong (胡同), it was surprising to find small modern boutique shops and cafes along the way. The hotel lived up to its name for the nostalgia theme, from the decorations at its entrance, reception and the room, which made you feel as if you are back to the olden days.


nostalgia hotel beijing yonghe lama temple
Nostalgia Hotel reception entrance
nostalgia hotel beijing yonghe lama temple
Decorations by the hotel entrance
nostalgia hotel beijing yonghe lama temple
Decorations by the lift entrance
nostalgia hotel beijing yonghe lama temple
Our room
nostalgia hotel beijing yonghe lama temple
Open glass bathroom



Yonghe Lama Temple (雍和宮)

We had a short rest in the room and then we set off to our first attraction, Yonghe Lama Temple (雍和宮), which is near to our hotel. We walked for around 15 minutes and reached the ticket office at the south end of the temple. There was no queue, so we quickly bought our tickets and entered the temple. The ticket also comprised of a small CD, which provides an overview of the temple.


yonghe lama temple entrance
Entrance of Yonghe Lama Temple
yonghe lama temple cd
CD that comes along with the entrance ticket
This place used to be the residence of Qing Emperor Yongzheng (雍正皇帝) when he was a Prince, but has since been converted to a Tibetan Buddhist monastery. The entire premise is large and consist of several halls, housing various Buddha statues and exhibitions related to the lamasery history. The architecture design of the halls and buildings are rich in a blend of Tibetan and Han Chinese style. One of the highlight is the Pavilion of Ten Thousand Happiness (万福阁), where it houses a 18m tall Maitreya Buddha statue, carved from a single white sandalwood (included in the 1993 Guinness Book of Records).


pavilion of ten thousand happiness
Pavilion of Ten Thousand Happiness
pavilion of ten thousand happiness maitreya buddha
Maitreya Buddha statue inside the Pavilion of Ten Thousand Happiness


Shizhahai (什刹海)

We left the temple via the same entrance we came in, walked to Yonghe Lama Temple Station (雍和宮) and took the MRT to Shizhahai Station (什刹海). From the station, it was just a short walk before we reached the bank of Qianhai (前海).


shizhahai
View of Shizhahai - Qianhai
Shizhahai (什刹海) area has three lakes, namely Qianhai (前海), Houhai (后海) and Xihai (西海). Along the banks of Qianhai (前海) and Houhai (后海), there are many pubs and restaurants, which make Shizhahai (什刹海) popular for its night life among the locals. Other than this, it is also a historical scenic place, where the former residence of many famous people are located here, such as the Prince Gong (恭亲王) and Soong Ching Ling (宋庆龄). This area is also popular for the trishaw rides within the hutong (胡同), where you get to see the life of locals and the traditional Siheyuan (四合院) courtyard houses. Qianhai (前海) and Houhai (后海) are separated by a bridge called Yinding Bridge (银锭桥). This is a major crossing between the east and west bank, thus there are many people and vehicles here. We ate Zhajiangmian (炸酱面) for our lunch at one of the restaurant near the bridge.


shizhahai yinding bridge
Intro of Yinding Bridge
shizhahai zhajiangmian
Zhajiangmian
shizhahai
Row of restaurants along the bank of Qianhai


Prince Gong Mansion (恭王府)

After lunch, we walked our way along the west bank of Qianhai (前海) to the next attraction, Prince Gong Mansion (恭王府). This is the former residence of Prince Gong (恭亲王) of Late Qing Dynasty, also one of the best preserved imperial mansion in Beijing. The whole area is big, divided into the garden in the north and the residential area in the southern part. We bought the entrance tickets at the southern end of the mansion.

prince gong mansion
Prince Gong Mansion
prince gong mansion entrance ticket
Prince Gong Mansion Entrance Ticket
The residential area consists of several Siheyuan (四合院) courtyards, with many halls now converted to showcase the history of the mansion's first owner, Qing official Heshen (和珅), Prince Gong (恭亲王) and other Qing Princes. It also contains exhibitions showcasing many collections (from household items to currency and hand weapons) from the imperial families. Note: I find that most of the exhibitions there have little or no English translations, thus it is not that friendly to non-Mandarin speaking tourists.

prince gong mansion gun lock
Western gun and lock exhibit
prince gong mansion official robe
Qing official robe of the Prince
prince gong mansion western clock
Western Clock exhibit
We proceeded to the garden section next. There are artificial mountain peaks, caves, ponds, rivers and pavilions that decorated around the entire garden. There are three main highlights in the garden, which are the Western Style Gate, the Grand Opera House and the "Fu" Stele. After the tour in the garden, we made our way back to the southern entrance to exit the mansion.


Beihai Park (北海公园)

After we exited the mansion, we walked for around 15 minutes to the next attraction, Beihai Park (北海公园). The park is really huge and consist of the Beihai (北海) lake in the center. Within the lake, there's a Jade Flower Island (琼华岛) where the White Pagoda (白塔) is located. The island can be reached by walking via the bridges to the east and south, or by ferry from the north bank. We bought our entrance tickets at the North Gate and started to explore the northern sector of the park.


beihai park entrance ticket
Beihai Park Entrance Ticket
Among the notable places in the northern sector are the Nine Dragon Screen (九龙壁) and the Five Dragon Pavilions (五龙亭).

nine dragon screen
Nine Dragon Screen Intro
nine dragon screen
Nine Dragon Screen
We then walked along east bank towards the Jade Flower Island (琼华岛). Along the way, we saw many locals strolling leisurely, as well as many others jogging around the park. There were also people who rented the row boats and paddle in the lake to enjoy the scenery. We reached the East Gate and crossed the bridge to the Jade Flower Island (琼华岛).


beihai park lotus boats
Lotus Boats for rent
white pagoda jade flower island
White Pagoda on Jade Flower Island from far
beihai park lotus boat
View on top of bridge to Jade Flower Island
There are several buildings on the island and most famous is the White Pagoda (白塔) located at the top of the hill. By this time, we were already very tired after a day of walking, thus we decided not to climb up the stairs and give the White Pagoda (白塔) a miss. Instead, we toured around the perimeter of the island before making our way back to the North Gate.


white pagoda jade flower island
Glimpse of White Pagoda on the hilltop
long corridor jade flower island
Long Corridor


Gui Jie (簋街)

We took the MRT from Beihai North Station (北海北) near the North Gate and back to Beixingqiao Station (北新桥). Stepping out of the station at night, we noticed the entire area was very different. This is the end of the famous food street, Gui Jie (簋街), or more famously known as the "Ghost Street". The Mandarin pronunciation of "簋" sounds like the word "Ghost 鬼", thus giving its name. Gui Jie (簋街) stretches along the entire Dongzhimen Inner Street (东直门内大街) and most of the restaurants sell the same popular dish, the Spicy Baby Lobster (麻辣小龙虾).

gui jie
Gui Jie
We made a random choice and walked into one of the restaurant to have our dinner. Since the Spicy Baby Lobster is so famous here, I definitely have to order this dish. The lobster comes in different sizes and the minimum order is 10 lobsters per serving. Unfortunately my wife don't take seafood, thus I could only choose the smallest lobster size serving. Later, I was told by the staff that that they would give us 5 more lobster free of charge as part of their promotion (you can imagine the fierce competition here). On top of this, we just ordered another stir fried pork. The lobster was served in a pot of "Sze Chuan Ma La" broth. The restaurant provided plastic gloves, so that I could use it to shell the lobsters.

spicy baby lobster guijie
Spicy Baby Lobster
stir fried pork guijie
Stir Fried Pork
Although there's a total of 15 lobsters, but they don't have a lot of meat, thus I was still able to finish them. Overall I had enjoyed the meal and the meal wasn't pricey as well. After the meal, we made our way back to the hotel to call it a day.


Follow the links below to the other days of my China tour:

Day 1: Beijing (Yonghe Lama Temple, Shizhahai, Prince Gong Mansion, Behai Park, Gui Jie)

Day 2: Beijing (Tiananmen Square, Forbidden City, Old Summer Palace, Wangfujing)

Day 3: Tianjin (Italian Style Town, Nanshi Food Street, Drum Tower, Ancient Cultural Street, Quanjude Peking Roast Duck)

Day 4: Xi'an (Muslim Street, Drum Tower, Bell Tower, Xi'an City Wall, Defu Alley)

Day 5: Xi'an (Terracotta Army Museum, Da Ci'en Temple, Big Wild Goose Pagoda, Tang Paradise)

Day 6: Huashan

Day 7: Beijing (Temple of Heaven, Silk Street)

Day 8: Beijing (Great Wall - Badaling, Ming 13 Tombs - Ding Ling, Shizhahai)

Day 9: Beijing (Summer Palace)