Tuesday 22 December 2015

One day independent travel guide to Huashan from Xi'an

Day 6

On Day 6, we embarked on the most tricky and challenging part of our China tour, which was an one day hiking trip to Mount Hua (Huashan 华山). It was tricky because it was difficult to reach Huashan (华山) from Xi'an, as we had to interchange between several modes of transportation before we could reach there. It was challenging because it was physically demanding to scale the mountain. Huashan (华山) is one of the 5 Great Mountains in China (the others are Mount Tai, Heng, Heng and Song), with its highest point at South Peak (南峰) (2154.9 metres). Huashan (华山) is also referenced in the famous "Sword Meet at Huashan" (华山论剑) of Jin Yong's (金庸) Chinese martial art novels.

There are several ways to ascend and tour the mountain. We have researched the routes and planned accordingly based on our physical fitness level and the available time we have. The general route will be to ascend the mountain via the cable car to the West Peak (西峰), then tour in the order of West Peak (西峰), South Peak (南峰), East Peak (东峰), Central Peak (中峰) and lastly North Peak (北峰). From North Peak (北峰), we will descend the mountain via the cable car there. This route is less strenuous as the overall route is descending (from Central Peak to North Peak). If one goes the other direction, that would mean climbing up a lot of stairs instead. It's definitely easier to climb down then climbing up the stairs. There are several dangerous passes on the mountain, but it is optional to scale them. There are safe alternatives routes and stairs with railings to these passes. For us, we won't be trying these dangerous passes.


huashan hiking map
My Huashan Hiking Route


Huashan (华山)

We woke up very early in the morning to catch the first train (6.30am) at Zhonglou Zhan (钟楼) to Bei Kezhan (北客站). We ate breakfast at KFC in the Xi'an North Railway Station (西安北站). We also takeaway some KFC chicken burgers as our lunch later at Huashan (华山), as there's not much food choices on top of the mountain. We departed the station at 7.50am via the high speed train on a half an hour journey to Huashanbei Railway Station (华山北站). Once we exited the station, we could see the carpark across the large square. Over there, we could find the green shuttle bus that will take us to the Huashan Visitor Centre (华山旅客中心). This shuttle service is free of charge and took around 20 min.


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At the Huashan Visitor Centre (华山旅客中心), this is where we have to purchase the entrance tickets to Huashan (华山). On top of that, we could also buy the tickets for another shuttle bus ride to either the cable car station to the North Peak (北峰) or the cable car station to the West Peak (西峰). We bought the shuttle bus tickets to the cable car station to West Peak (西峰). At the bus terminal, the blue shuttle bus goes to the cable car station to West Peak (西峰), while the gold shuttle bus goes to the cable car station to North Peak (北峰). We boarded the blue shuttle bus for another 45 min of bus ride to the cable car station. The place where the blue shuttle bus terminated is not the cable car station yet. We had to further climb several fleet of stairs before we reached the ticketing office. After around 20 min, we finally reached the cable car station and bought the cable car tickets.


huashan west peak cable car station gateway
Gateway to the Huashan West Peak Cable Car Lower Station
huashan west peak cable car tickets
Huashan West Peak cable car tickets
huashan west peak cable car lower station
Huashan West Peak Cable Car Lower Station


West Peak (西峰)

The entire cable car ride to the upper station is 4211 metres long and took around 20 min. Throughout the journey, we could enjoy the great scenery, starting from lush green vegetation to the precipitous cliffs nearer the upper station.


huashan west peak cable car
Leaving the Lower Station
huashan west peak cable car

huashan west peak cable car

huashan west peak cable car
Approaching the Upper Station
Once we exited the cable car upper station, we could feel the air is much cooler and thinner as well. We could also see clear directional signs (with proper English translation) to guide the visitors to various attractions.


huashan west peak cable car upper station
Entrance to the West Peak Cable Car Upper Station
huashan direction sign boards
Direction sign boards
huashan west peak cable car
View of the cable cars from the Upper Station
From the cable car station, we started the proper hiking at around 10.50am towards the West Peak (西峰). After winding up through the vegetation, we came to an open area where there's a path along the mountain ridge up towards the Cuiyun Palace (翠云宫), which is a Taoist temple. The "stairs" are simply steps cut into the ground. The pathway is around 2-3 metres wide with iron chains on both sides as the barrier.


huashan west peak ridge path
Ridge path way up West Peak
huashan west peak cuiyun palace
West Peak Cuiyun Palace
Around the Cuiyun Palace (翠云宫), there are several large rocks where visitors could climb onto them. The highest point (2086.2 metres) of West Peak (西峰) is located at one of the rock. The view here is magnificent, overlooking at other lower mountain peaks.


huashan west peak rock
Visitors climbing up the big rock at West Peak
huashan west peak
View from West Peak
We rested at Cuiyun Palace (翠云宫) for a while before we descended through the same mountain ridge path and turned to the other direction towards the South Peak (南峰).


huashan west peak
View of West Peak en-route South Peak


South Peak (南峰)

Along the way, we passed by a place with a furnace, known as the Immortality Pill Making Furnace (炼丹炉), which is not too far away from the highest point (2154.9 metres) of South Peak (南峰). 


huashan south peak immortality pill making furnace
Immortality Pill Making Furnace
huashan south peak immortality pill making furnace introduction
Introduction to the Immortality Pill Making Furnace
We climbed to the highest point and took photos together with the tablet. From there, we also had a good view of the West Peak (西峰).


huashan south peak introduction
Introduction to South Peak
huashan south peak highest point tablet
South Peak highest point tablet
huashan west peak
View of West Peak from South Peak
We did not stay long at the highest point as it was quite crowded. We continued our journey towards the East Peak (东峰), which is located quite far away from the South Peak (南峰).


huashan east peak
View of ridge path way uphill towards the East Peak
We passed by another temple known as the Heavenly South Gate (南天门), which leads to the famous attraction of the South Peak (南峰), the Cliffside Plank Path (长空栈道). The Cliffside Plank Path (长空栈道) is touted as the world's most dangerous trail. From what I understand, anyone who wants to attempt this trail must rent a harness that comes with two carabiner hooks, which one of them must be hooked to the "safety line" along the trail at any point of time. One has to descend down a series of iron bar ladder before reaching the plank path that skirts around the perimeter of the cliff. The wooden plank path is around one foot wide and is only supported by metal bars nailed onto the cliff. To make things even more challenging, the plank path is two-way traffic, one has to criss cross with other people who are moving in the opposite direction. At the end of the plank path is a small shrine, after which one has to turn back using the same path.

huashan south peak cliffside plank path
Route down to the Plank Path (Photo from Rolling Stone Chronicles)
huashan south peak cliffside plank path
Huashan South Peak Cliffside Plank Path (Photo from Gopole.com)
When we reached the location, there's already a long queue of daredevils waiting to challenge the trail.


huashan south peak cliffside plank path
Long queue waiting to challenge the Cliffside Plank Path
We only took pictures around the area and continued to descend downhill. We found some benches along way and decided to rest and have our lunch (the takeaway KFC chicken burger).


East Peak ()

The way to the East Peak (东峰) is a long uphill hike, which we had to make several stops along the way to rest our aching legs.


huashan east peak chess pavilion
View of East Peak and the Chess Pavilion (right)
huashan east peak
Scenic view en-route East Peak
huashan east peak chess pavilion
Chess Pavilion
huashan east peak chess pavilion
Two trekkers en-route Chess Pavilion
Upon reaching the East Peak (东峰), highest point at 2096.2 metres), one could see the scenic Chess Pavilion (下棋亭), standing alone on top of the cliff. The only way to get to the Chess Pavilion (下棋亭) is to pass through the "Sparrowhawk Flips Over" (鹞子翻身), which is another dangerous cliff path. One would also need to rent a harness to descend down the cliff.


huashan east peak chess pavilion sparrowhawk flips over
Route down the "Sparrowhawk Flips Over"
After this, we proceeded to the Central Peak (中峰), which the route is generally descending from here onward.


Central Peak ()

Along the way, we passed by another interesting pass known as the Cloud Ladder (云梯), which is an almost vertical ladder pass with steps carved from the stone wall. Over here, there's no harness used and visitor has to hold on tight to the iron chains by the sides while climbing. We did not attempt this bypass using the proper staircase beside.

huashan cloud ladder
Top view of Cloud Ladder
huashan cloud ladder
Bottom view of Cloud Ladder
The Central Peak (中峰) itself, highest point at 2037.9 metres, is surrounded by the other 3 peaks, thus there's no great scenery here. There's only one Taoist temple called the Jade Maiden Temple (玉女祠).


huashan central peak
Introduction to Central Peak
huashan central peak
Huashan Central Peak
We had a long rest along the stairs, where we saw many visitors trekking up from the direction of the North Peak (北峰). After the rest, we continued the journey to the Golden Lock Pass (金锁关), where one could easily observe the large quantities of golden locks with red ribbons locked to two sides of the iron chains. Couples could buy the locks and inscribe their names on them as a symbol of everlasting love.


huashan golden lock pass
Golden Lock Pass
After the pass, it is all the way descending towards the North Peak (北峰).


North Peak ()

Along the way, we passed by the Five Cloud Peak Hotel before the famous Cang Long Ling (苍龙岭), also known as the "Black Dragon Ridge". It is a very narrow pathway carved onto the mountain ridge, with steep cliffs on both sides. We did not use this pass, instead going down using another alternative path by the side of the ridge.


huashan golden lock pass
Scenic view en-route North Peak
huashan black dragon ridge cang long ling
View of the Black Dragon Ridge
Upon reaching the foot of the ridge, we finally had a sight of our end point at the North Peak Cable Car Upper Station.


huashan north peak cable car station
View of the North Peak Cable Car Upper Station
It was another several hundred metres of walk before we reached the North Peak (北峰), highest point at 1614.9 metres. We made the last rest stop and after which we decided to bid farewell to Huashan (华山). We had completed the hike to all the 5 peaks within 5 hours, at the expense of our weary and aching pair of legs.


huashan north peak cable car tickets
North Peak cable car tickets


Back to Xi'an (西安)

We bought the cable car tickets and descended to the lower station. The cable car ride is much shorter than the one at West Peak (西峰), only around 8 min. At the cable car lower station, we purchased another set of shuttle bus tickets and ride onto the gold shuttle bus back to the Huashan Visitor Centre (华山旅客中心). From the Visitor Centre carpark, we took the free shuttle bus back to the Huashanbei Railway Station (华山北站). As we had already purchased our train tickets, it was still very early. We had an early dinner at one of the noodle restaurant just outside of the railway station. After the dinner, we waited some more before taking the high speed train back to Xi'an, followed by the Metro to our hotel area. It was still early and we decided to shop for souvenirs at the Muslim Street (回民街) before we depart Xi'an the next day.


Follow the links below to the other days of my China tour:

Day 1: Beijing (Yonghe Lama Temple, Shizhahai, Prince Gong Mansion, Behai Park, Gui Jie)

Day 2: Beijing (Tiananmen Square, Forbidden City, Old Summer Palace, Wangfujing)

Day 3: Tianjin (Italian Style Town, Nanshi Food Street, Drum Tower, Ancient Cultural Street, Quanjude Peking Roast Duck)

Day 4: Xi'an (Muslim Street, Drum Tower, Bell Tower, Xi'an City Wall, Defu Alley)

Day 5: Xi'an (Terracotta Army Museum, Da Ci'en Temple, Big Wild Goose Pagoda, Tang Paradise)

Day 6: Huashan

Day 7: Beijing (Temple of Heaven, Silk Street)

Day 8: Beijing (Great Wall - Badaling, Ming 13 Tombs - Ding Ling, Shizhahai)

Day 9: Beijing (Summer Palace)


Monday 21 December 2015

Self travel to see the world renowned Terracotta Army

Day 5

We woke up in the morning preparing for another exciting day in Xi'an. Today, we would kick off the day with a visit to the world famous Terracotta Army Museum (秦始皇兵马俑博物馆), which is a must visit attraction for visitors to Xi'an. We left the hotel at around 7am and took a taxi to Xi'an Railway Station (西安站). We had a quick breakfast at the MacDonald's located just opposite street of the railway station, before proceeding to the East Square of the railway station. This is where the bus terminal is located. Along the way, we encountered many people asking us whether we want to take their coach or transport to the Terracotta Army Museum (秦始皇兵马俑博物馆) or other tourist attractions, but we ignored and headed straight looking for the Tourist Bus 游 5 (306), which is the official tourist bus operated by the local government. There's no ticket counter, so head to the bus and board it. The ticket would be issued and purchased from the bus conductor. Tourist Bus 游 5 (306) is also the same bus that could bring you to another popular tourist attraction, Hua Qing Hot Springs (华清池). The Terracotta Army Museum (秦始皇兵马俑博物馆) is the terminal station for this bus service.


Terracotta Army Museum (秦始皇兵马俑博物馆)

The collection of terracotta sculptures of warriors, chariots and horses (also known as the Terracotta Army) gained fame worldwide with its first discovery by local farmers in 1974. Thousands of these terracotta figurines have been discovered so far and they are dated back to the Qin dynasty more than 2200 years ago. The Terracotta Army is part of the burial objects in the Mausoleum of Qin Shi Huang (秦始皇), The First Emperor of China, meant to protect the emperor in his afterlife. Other than the terracotta figurines, other burial items discovered includes bronze chariots, horses, cranes, acrobatic figurines and weaponry.

The bus ride from Xi'an Railway Station (西安站) took around an hour. Once we reached there, we followed the crowd to the ticket office and purchased the entrance tickets. The Terracotta Army Museum (秦始皇兵马俑博物馆) is part of the bigger Emperor Qinshihuang's Mausoleum Site (秦始皇帝陵博物院), which also comprise of the Emperor's Tomb Mound at the foot of Mount Li (秦始皇帝陵 - 骊山园). The entrance tickets we purchased permits visit to these 2 locations. The Emperor's Tomb Mound is located 2.2 km away from the ticket office and the Terracotta Army Museum (秦始皇兵马俑博物馆). Visitors could take the free shuttle bus services between these 2 locations. As the tomb is not excavated, what visitors could see is only the earth mound covered with vegetation. In addition to time constraints, we won't be visiting the Emperor's Tomb Mound.


qin shi huang terracotta army warrior horse museum
Qin Shi Huang Terracotta Army Museum
qin shi huang terracotta army warrior horse museum tickets
Entrance tickets

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There are many tour guides (licensed), including English speaking, outside the entrance that free and easy visitors could engaged for touring the museum. From the ticket office, it was another 15 minutes walk through the park before we reached the excavation pits. We started exploring Pit 1, which is also the biggest excavation pits, followed by Pit 2 and 3. The entire Pit 1 is enclosed within a mega structure, which protects the site from external weathers. What lay in front of us was the majestic view of columns of terracotta warriors and horses, positioned in an army battle formation. Each of these figurines were handmade, lifelike and having different facial expressions and postures. All these made us admire the great wisdom and the skillful craftsmanship that the ancient Chinese had more than 2200 years ago.


qin shi huang terracotta army warrior horse pit 1
View of Pit 1
qin shi huang terracotta army warrior horse pit 1
Terracotta warriors
qin shi huang terracotta army warrior horse pit 1
Terracotta warriors and horses
qin shi huang terracotta army warrior horse pit 1
Terracotta warriors and horses in battle formation
As we walked down the side, we realised that the entire pit is still not fully excavated. Many broken pieces of the terracotta warriors and horses still lay within the pits, waiting to be restored in the future. All the introductions and explanations here have proper English translation, thus it shouldn't be an issue for international tourists to understand different parts of the pit.


qin shi huang terracotta army warrior horse pit 1
Terracotta figurines undergoing restoration
qin shi huang terracotta army warrior horse pit 1
View of Pit 1
After touring one round the Pit 1, we proceeded to the Pit 2. Other than the terracotta warriors and horses, we can find war chariots and many bronze weapons here. There's an exhibition here to showcase some of the special discoveries, such as the Kneeling Archer, Standing Archer, Terracotta General, Cavalryman with the Saddled Horse and bronze weapons. At one area of the pit, we could see the excavation work is still on-going.


qin shi huang terracotta army warrior horse pit 2 map
Layout of Pit 2
qin shi huang terracotta army warrior horse pit 2
Original state of remnants in the pit
qin shi huang terracotta army warrior horse pit 2
Terracotta warriors
qin shi huang terracotta army warrior horse pit 2
Wheel of the chariot can be clearly seen
qin shi huang terracotta army warrior horse pit 2 exhibition
Exhibition of the original structure of the burial pit
terracotta kneeling archer
Kneeling Archer
terracotta standing archer
Standing Archer
terracotta general
Terracotta General
terracotta cavalryman saddle horse
Cavalryman with saddled horse
terracotta bronze weapon
Bronze weapons
qin shi huang terracotta army warrior horse excavation
Ongoing excavation work at Pit 2
Next at the Pit 3, it is much smaller, but the terracotta figurines here were better preserved, as the pit was not burned as compared to Pit 1 and 2. Even the original floor tiles can be seen here. It is believed by the experts that Pit 3 was the command centre of the terracotta army.

qin shi huang terracotta army warrior horse museum pit 3
Pit 3 - The Terracotta Army Command Centre
qin shi huang terracotta army warrior horse museum pit 3
View of Pit 3

After the Pits, we visited the Bronze Works Exhibition Hall. Over here, the highlight is the 2 large size bronze chariots, named as Chariot No. 1 and 2. These chariots are the most complete and best preserved ancient bronze works in the world.


qin shi huang terracotta army warrior horse bronze chariots
Introduction of the bronze chariots
qin shi huang terracotta army warrior horse bronze chariot 1
Chariot No. 1
qin shi huang terracotta army warrior horse bronze chariots 2
Chariot No. 2
After this, we exited the museum, which led us to a long wide street. There are souvenir shops along the street, selling items related to the Terracotta Warriors. There's so much competition here that one could bargain for the best price. Almost every shop is selling the similar items. At the end of the street, it brings us back to the ticking office area. We had lunch here at the KFC before we leave.


Da Ci'en Temple (大慈恩寺) and Big Wild Goose Pagoda (大雁塔)

After lunch, we took the Tourist Bus 游 5 (306) back to Xi'an Railway Station (西安站). At the railway station, we then grab a taxi to our next attraction, the Big Wild Goose Pagoda (大雁塔). The Buddhist pagoda is another popular tourist attraction in Xi'an city and was built during the early Tang dynasty, which housed the Buddhist sutras and figurines that Xuanzang (玄奘) brought to China during from his pilgrimage to India. He is a famous figure which the character Tang Sanzang (唐三藏) in the classical Chinese literature (Journey to the West 西游记) is referenced. The pagoda is located within the Da Ci'en Temple (大慈恩寺) complex. Therefore, we need to purchase the entrance tickets to the temple first. The Da Ci'en Temple (大慈恩寺) is one of the best preserved imperial temples of the Tang dynasty, initially built to commemorate Emperor Gaozong's late mother.


xi'an da ci'en temple entrance ticket
Entrance tickets to Da Ci'en Temple
xi'an da ci'en temple
Entrance of Da Ci'en Temple
After the entrance, we could see the Mahavira Hall (大雄寶殿), which enshrined the Buddha statues of Shakyamuni, Vairocana and Mahavairocana. After which, we could see the seven storey high Big Wild Goose Pagoda (大雁塔).


xi da ci'en temple big wild goose pagoda
View inside the Da Ci'en Temple
xi'an da ci'en temple mahavira hall
Mahavira Hall
xi'an big wild goose pagoda
View of the Big Wild Goose Pagoda
We need to purchase another set of tickets to climb the pagoda. Inside the pagoda, we could see some of the original wall inscriptions dated to the Tang dynasty, as well as some small Buddhist relics on display. At the top of the pagoda, we got a good view of the surrounding area.


xi'an big wild goose pagoda entrance tickets
Entrance tickets to Big Wild Goose Pagoda
xi'an big wild goose pagoda inscriptions
Explanation of the inscriptions in the pagoda
xi'an big wild goose pagoda view
View on top of the pagoda
We did not spent too much time at the pagoda, and next we visited the Xuanzang Memorial Hall (玄奘紀念馆) located just behind the pagoda. The hall was built in honour of Xuanzang (玄奘), which we could find a bronze statue of him, as well as many stone and wood carvings on display. After this, we exited the temple.

xi'an xuanzang memorial hall
Xuanzang Memorial Hall
xi'an xuanzang memorial hall statue
Bronze statue of Xuanzang inside the memorial hall
xi'an xuanzang statue big wild goose pagoda
Bronze statue of Xuanzang outside Da Ci'en Temple


Tang Paradise (大唐芙蓉园)

We proceeded to the last attraction of the day, which is the Tang Paradise (大唐芙蓉园). From the Da Ci'en Temple (大慈恩寺), we walked eastwards for around 15 minutes towards the North Gate (春明门) and purchased the entrance tickets, one of the several entrances to the attraction.


xi'an tang paradise
Tang Paradise
xi'an tang paradise tickets
Entrance tickets to Tang Paradise
Tang Paradise (大唐芙蓉园) is a modern theme park displaying the culture and architecture of the Tang dynasty. The park is very big with a lake at the centre, and consists of several scenic regions, focusing on different cultural themes. There are several performances (e.g. lion dance and drum performances) at different sites and schedule, so we had to keep a lookout of them. Along the way, we could also see men on horses dressed like Tang imperial guards strolling around the park. From the entrance, we toured along the west bank of the lake, covering regions like the Apricot Garden (杏园), which displays the Tang dynasty imperial examination system, the Luyu Tea House (陆羽茶社), which focus on the traditional tea art and ceremony, the Children Recreational Area (儿童娱乐区), which has some interesting playground concepts and tells the story of the gifted children of the Tang dynasty and the Purple Cloud Tower (紫云楼) which focus on the culture of the Emperor's imperial life.


xi'an tang paradise apricot garden
Entrance to the Apricot Garden
xi'an tang paradise apricot garden
Interior of Apricot Garden
xi'an tang paradise luyu tea house
Teapot sculpture beside Luyu Tea House
xi'an tang paradise water wheel
Water wheel at the Children Recreational Area
xi'an tang paradise purple cloud tower
View of Purple Cloud Tower across the lake
Near the South Gate, there's a world class theatre called Fengmingjiutian Theatre (凤鸣九天剧院) that housed the grandeur "Dream of Tang Dynasty (梦回大唐)" performance. This performance requires a separate ticket, which we did not watch.


xi'an tang paradise
Display at West Gate
xi'an tang paradise street parade
Street Parade across the bridge
xi'an tang paradise west gate
Bridge near the West Gate
There's not much choice of food in the park, thus we had our dinner at the Imperial Banquet Hall (御宴宫) near the West Gate (御苑门). This is a grand banquet hall and serves only Chinese food. We ordered minced pork wrap, roasted pigeon and spicy Chinese vermicelli with prawns.


xi'an tang paradise imperial banquet hall
Imperial Banquet Hall
xi'an tang paradise imperial banquet hall minced pork wrap
Minced pork wrap
xi'an tang paradise imperial banquet hall roasted pigeon
Roasted pigeon
xi'an tang paradise imperial banquet hall chinese vermicelli
Chinese vermicelli
After dinner, it was already night time and the entire area provided another different experience with the streets and buildings lighted up with different colours.


xi'an tang paradise night view
Night view at Tang Paradise
xi'an tang paradise night view


We then walked to the Purple Cloud Tower (紫云楼) as there will a spectacular water screen show called "Da Tang Zhui Meng (大唐追梦)". The show encompasses the world largest water screen display, coupled with laser and special effects, and the performance that tells the history and culture of the ancient Tang dynasty. Visitors could pay a fee to get a good view sitting at the terrace, otherwise like myself could stand at the side of the terrace to watch it free.


xi'an tang paradise purple cloud tower night view
Night view at the Purple Cloud Tower
xi'an tang paradise water screen show
Water Screen Show Performance
xi'an tang paradise water screen show

xi'an tang paradise water screen show

xi'an tang paradise water screen show

xi'an tang paradise water screen show

xi'an tang paradise water screen show


After the show, we exited the theme park via the West Gate (御苑门) and took a taxi back to the hotel.


xi'an tang paradise west gate
Night view outside West Gate