Tuesday 3 February 2015

The most scenic road trip in Taiwan: The Suhua Highway overlooking the Pacific Ocean

Day 3

On Day 3, we would be leaving Taipei and embark on a long coach journey to Hualien City (花蓮市). We left behind some of the larger and heavier luggage at East Dragon Hotel (東龍大飯店), while we packed smaller baggage along the trip to Hualien City for a 2 night stay. We will come back to the same hotel after the Hualien trip. Our coach hit the highway soon after navigating through the busy streets of Taipei and speed towards the township of Su'ao (蘇澳) in Yilan County (宜蘭縣). Most of us still had the hangover after the late KTV session the earlier night, thus the long trip provided a good opportunity for us to catch more sleep.


Jinan Temple


Su'ao is a coastal town, famous for its seafood restaurants and cold springs. We will stop by this place for our lunch break. But before we proceed for our lunch, we stopped by a temple called Jinan Temple (南方澳進安宮) for a short visit.


taiwan su'ao red coral goddess of mazu jin an gong
Goddess of Mazu Temple, Su'Ao (Source: Photo from jses1335.pixnet.net)
This temple does not have a very long history as compared to the Keelung Peace Island Tianhou Temple nor other Tianhou temples in Yilan County. What's unique about this temple is there's a Goddess of Mazu statue completely carved from a piece of red coral. It is the biggest red coral sculpture in the world, weighing 600 kg.


taiwan su'ao red coral goddess of mazu jin an gong
Interior view of the temple
taiwan su'ao red coral goddess of mazu jin an gong
Red coral sculpture statue of Goddess of Mazu

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Nan Fang Ao Fishing Harbour (南方澳漁港)

After the temple visit, it was a very short drive to the Nan Fang Ao Fishing Harbour (南方澳漁港). Our lunch venue was one of the seafood restaurants, Fumei Seafood (富美活海鮮餐廳). It has live seafood offering located near its entrance, which customer could choose their selection. Unfortunately, we had quite a number of members who do not take seafood, thus we did not order too many seafood dishes. The restaurant seems popular among locals and tourists, as it was packed not long after we had our dishes served.


taiwan su'ao fumei seafood
Fumei Seafood Restaurant (Source: Photo from suaofood.yilane.com.tw)
taiwan su'ao fumei seafood

Pork knuckle

Qingshui Cliff (清水斷崖)

After lunch, we continued our journey southwards via the Suhua Highway (蘇花公路), which winds alongside the steep cliffs, with the other side facing the Pacific Ocean. This highway is a major link between northern and eastern Taiwan, and also considered dangerous in the past when the roads were narrow and under constant threats of landslides. Today, the roads are widened and safer after many years of improvements, which commuters can enjoy the scenic ocean view along the journey.


taiwan suhua highway
Ocean view along Suhua Highway
We made a rest stop at the Qingshui Cliff (清水斷崖), which is a very popular among locals and tourists. From here, we got to see the towering cliffs at 90 degree against the crystal blue ocean. We lingered around the rest stop to take photos against the breathtaking backdrop.


hualien qingshui cliff
Qingshui Cliff
hualien qingshui cliff

hualien qingshui cliff


Qixintan Beach (七星潭)

After the rest, we got onto the coach to continue the journey. After further up and down along the cliffside, we had finally reached the plain near to the entrance of Taroko National Park (太魯閣國家公園). Soon after that, we entered Hualien City. Hualien City is the county seat for the Hualien County, home to a number of Taiwanese aboriginal people like Amis (阿美族), Atayal (泰雅族) and Bunun (布農族). Today, Hualien City is famous for its tourism (mainly because of the Taroko National Park) and a major exporter of stones. It was late in the afternoon but still early for dinner. We dropped by to visit the Qixintan Beach (七星潭) near the airport. Qixintan (七星潭) is wide and long crescent shaped beach made of small pebbles. The wind here was really strong, as we could also see from the continuous rolling waves crashing against the beach. Everyone put on their jackets to brave against the cold wind and strolled along the beach, taking photos and stacking up the stones.


hualien qixintan seven star lake
Hualien Qixintan
hualien qixintan seven star lake


Hang Rou (夯肉)

After the fun at the beach, it was getting dark and we departed for a restaurant in the city called Hang Rou (夯肉) for our dinner. Hang Rou (夯肉) refers to BBQ pork, which is their specialty dish. Of course we had ordered the recommended Hang Rou, along with other meat skewers, squid, vegetables, soup and plum wine.


hualien hang rou
Interior of Hang Rou restaurant (Source: Photo from jumpman.tw)
hualien hang rou
Hang Rou (BBQ Pork) (Source: Photo from meylaihualien.wix.com)
At the back of the restaurant, there's a place where patrons could play darts. After the meal, the youngsters started to gather there to pit their skills.


Mochi (麻糬)

Before we depart for our hotel, we made a stop at a Zeng Ji Mochi (曾記麻糬) shop near the railway station. Zeng Ji Mochi (曾記麻糬) is renowned in Hualien and the entire Taiwan for its mochi (glutinous rice ball). After walking through the shop, I did not found any product that specially enticed me. I stepped out of the shop for a while and saw another mochi shop across the road operated by Ah Mei Mochi (阿美麻糬).


hualien ah mei mochi
Ah Mei Mochi shop
I was informed by the tour guide that the difference between their mochi is Ah Mei Mochi (阿美麻糬) uses the traditional glutinous rice grown by the Amis aborigines to make their mochi. For your information, mochi is a desert snack that originates from the Amis aborigines. Eventually I visited Ah Mei Mochi (阿美麻糬) and bought some mochi of variety of flavours from them, which I intended to treat my family and colleagues back home.


Fanlin House (汎水凌山花园民宿)

After a long day, it's finally time to move into our lodging. We would be staying at Fanlin House (汎水凌山花园民宿) for 2 nights. It is located quite far away from the city centre, near to the farmland and airport area, which requires around 10 min drive from the Hualien Railway Station. It was the first time for everyone to stay in a home stay or "min su 民宿", thus everyone was excited about the stay. As we arrived at night time, so we could not really see the surrounding scenery clearly (you can see more photos of Fanlin House on Day 4 of the blog post). The whole place looks like a cozy cottage, with a big garden in front.


hualien fanlin house reception area
Reception Area
hualien fanlin house dinning area
Dinning Area
After we got our room allocation and started to drag our luggage to the respective rooms. Every room here is unique, each with its own decoration. We were so curious and excited, which we started to explore one another's room. After the exploration, it's time to wash and go to bed.


hualien fanlin house superior double room
Superior Double Room
hualien fanlin house superior double room
Superior Double Room
hualien fanlin house superior double room
Walkway down the bathroom (Superior Double Room)

hualien fanlin house
Common area at second level of the main building
hualien fanlin house superior quadruple room
Superior Quadruple Room
hualien fanlin house standard double room
Standard Double Room



Follow the links below to the other days of my Taiwan tour:

Day 1: Taipei (Tamsui, Ximending Hot Pot)

Day 2: Keelung (Tianhou Temple @ Peace Island, Zhong Zheng Park, Ershawan Fortification, Bisha Fishing Port, Nanya Rock Formation, Bitou Cape, Miaokou Night Market, Cashbox Party World)

Day 3: Hualien (Jinan Temple, Nan Fang Ao Fishing Harbour, Qingshui Cliff, Qixintan Beach, Hang Rou, Mochi, Fanlin House Minsu)

Day 4: Hualien (Taroko National Park Visitor Centre, Shakadang Trail, Leader Village Taroko, Buluowan Visitor Centre, Tianxiang, Eternal Spring Shrine, Dajili Restaurant, Rainbow Night Market)

Day 5: Taipei (Yilan Cake Factory, Fu Ge Shi Yao Chicken, Shifen & Sky Lantern, Mei Guan Yuan @ Ximending)

Day 6: Wulai (Neidong National Forest Recreation Area, Wulai Old Street, Sun Moon Light Hot Spring, Ding Tai Fung @ Taipei 101, Chia Te Bakery)

Day 7: Taipei (Hsing Tian Gong, Sun Yat-Sen Memorial Hall, Taipei 101, Wufenpu, Shi Da Night Market)

Day 8 & 9: Taipei (Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall, Shin Yeh Restaurant, National Palace Museum, Shilin Night Market)

Monday 2 February 2015

Guided day tour of Keelung from Taipei (Covering Heping Island, Ershawan Fortification, Nanya Rock Formations, Bitou Cape and Miaokou Night Market)

Day 2

Day Trip to Keelung (基隆)

On Day 2, we began the official tour organised by Topology Travel (真程旅行社). We had breakfast at the hotel and by 8.30am, all of us were ready to depart for a day trip to Keelung and the nearby northern coastal area by coach. Our tour guides were very interactive, which other than introducing the history and landmarks of the city of Taipei and Keelung, they also cracked jokes to entertain us along the journey.

Keelung is a major port city in northern Taiwan. Throughout its history, it has been a major maritime battleground among the colonial powers (Spanish, Dutch, British and French) and the Chinese Qing Empire, due to its strategic position with a natural deep water harbour. Today, Keelung is popular for seafood, its beautiful natural northern coast scenery and a number of old forts.


Tianhou Temple @ Peace (Heping) Island (和平島 - 天后宮)

The journey to Keelung took around an hour. Our first attraction was the Tianhou Temple (天后宮) located at Peace Island (和平島), which is linked to the mainland via a bridge. The Tianhou Temple (天后宮) here is the oldest temple in northern Taiwan dedicated to the Goddess of Mazu (媽祖), having a history of more than 300 years. We took time to offer our prayers to the Goddess and other gods in the temple. The temple's architecture also caught our attention, which the roofs are decorated with dragons and colourful figurines from Chinese legend and mythology.


keelung peace heping island tianhou temple
Peace Island Tianhou Temple
keelung peace heping island tianhou temple


keelung peace heping island tianhou temple
Interior sky well area
keelung peace heping island tianhou temple
Mystical figurines on the roof
keelung peace heping island tianhou temple
Dragon decorations on the roof
keelung peace heping island tianhou temple mazu
Goddess of Mazu statue in the centre of the hall
We also went to the 3rd storey of the temple, which provides good view over the surrounding areas of Peace Island (和平島) and entire temple compound.


keelung peace heping island tianhou temple
Panoramic view from Tianhou Temple
Other than the Tianhou Temple (天后宮), the Peace Island Park (和平島公園) located at the northern coast of the island is also another popular attraction, where visitors could see the eroded rocks and coasts in unique shapes. Unfortunately, this is not in our itinerary.


Zhong Zheng Park (
中正公園)

After the temple visit, we departed for the Zhong Zheng Park (中正公園), which is a popular attraction in Keelung City. At the top level of the park, one could easily spot the prominent landmark, which is a 23 meter tall white statue of the Goddess of Mercy (觀音).


keelung zhong zheng park
Gateway towards Keelung Zhong Zheng Park
keelung zhong zheng park goddess of mercy guanyin
White Goddess of Mercy statue
The statue is also a 5 storey high tower, which allows visitors to climb inside and have a good view of the surrounding area


keelung zhong zheng park goddess of mercy guanyin
Entrance to the statue tower
keelung zhong zheng park goddess of mercy guanyin
Decoration on Buddhist teachings inside the statue tower
Near to the statue, there's an open viewing platform where it provides a good place to oversee the entire Keelung harbour.


keelung zhong zheng park long corridor
Long Corridor
keelung zhong zheng park harbour view
View of Keelung Harbour
There's also a big bronze bell, which visitors could pay a small donation to strike the bell.


keelung zhong zheng park bronze bell
Bronze Bell



Ershawan Fortification (二沙灣砲台)

We proceeded to visit the nearby Ershawan Fortification (二沙灣砲台), a well preserved and important historical site.


keelung ershawan fortification

keelung ershawan fortification

The fortification was first built in 1840 by the Chinese Qing government to repel the British naval attacks on Keelung harbour during the Opium War. Situated on top of the Ershawan hill overlooking the Keelung harbour, it was an excellent strategic defence spot. It was later destroyed by the French forces in 1884 during the Sino-French War, but rebuilt again after the truce.


keelung ershawan fortification introduction
Introduction to Ershawan Fortification
keelung ershawan fortification map
Map of Ershawan Fortification park
keelung ershawan fortification harbour defence plan
Defence plan of Keelung harbour
What remains today are the three replica cannons, battery fortification and other ruin sites like the ancient well and cemetery. Even if one does not have interest with the history, it is still an enjoyable walk through the lush green and quiet trails within the park.


keelung ershawan fortification cannon
Cannon at East Battery
keelung ershawan fortification cannon
Cannon at North Battery
keelung ershawan fortification cannon
Another cannon at North Battery
keelung ershawan fortification ancient well
Ancient Well
keelung ershawan fortification ancient cemetery
Ancient Cemetery


Lunch at Bisha Fishing Port (碧砂漁港)

After the eventful morning, we departed for Bisha Fishing Port (碧砂漁港) for our lunch, which is not very far from Zhong Zheng Park (中正公園). Bisha Fishing Port (碧砂漁港) is a popular place in Keelung for fresh seafood. There's a harbour, fish market and rows of seafood restaurants. Our lunch venue was at Yu Pin Xuan (漁品軒) Seafood Restaurant.


keelung bisha fishing port yu pin xuan
Yu Pin Xuan Seafood Restaurant (Source: Photo from eltatv.225.pixnet.net) 
The restaurant is decorated in deep blue ocean colour, which really fits in the seafood theme. In front of its stall, this is where customers could choose the seafood they want. We ordered fish, fish soup, the highly recommended fried rice and some vegetables etc.


keelung bisha fishing port yu pin xuan fish soup noodle
Fish soup noodle (Source: Photo from imchiuyen.pixnet.net) 
keelung bisha fishing port yu pin xuan fried rice
Fried Rice
keelung bisha fishing port yu pin xuan
Vegetable
Along the side of the restaurant, they also sell local seafood snacks to visitors, such as dried fish rolls, dried cuttlefish snacks, and seafood flavoured cup noodles etc. After the lunch, we spent some time here to buy the snacks and also stroll along the walkway in front of the harbour.


keelung bisha fishing port
Bisha Fishing Port harbour
keelung bisha fishing port



Nanya Rock Formations (南雅奇岩)

After lunch, our coach drove along the northern coast highway to reach the next destination, the Nanya Rock Formations (南雅奇岩). The rock formation is mainly sandstone, which after many years of weathering and wave action, gives its current unique shapes.


keelung nanya rock formations
Introduction of Nanya Rock Formations
keelung nanya rock formations

keelung nanya rock formations

We walked slowly down towards the rock formations, which everyone were amazed by the beautiful scenery, busy taking photos of the shore and the unique rocks. The waves were strong which continuously plunged towards the rock formations. To many of us, it was their first time so close to a coastal rock formation and experiencing the strong plunging waves.


keelung nanya rock formations

keelung nanya rock formations

keelung nanya rock formations

keelung nanya rock formations

keelung nanya rock formations

keelung nanya rock formations

keelung nanya rock formations



Bitou Cape (鼻頭角)

After Nanya, we proceeded to the Bitou Cape (鼻頭角). The cape landform protrudes into the sea in the shape of a nose, thus giving its name "Bitou", or "Tip of the nose" in mandarin. This is an excellent place for people who like nature and trekking, which visitors could enjoy the greenery along the hiking trails, as well as view of the crystal blue Pacific Ocean and the towering seaside cliffs. The coach dropped us just outside the Bitou Elementary School (鼻頭國小). But before we set off for the trails, we were amazed by the setting of the school itself. It was built just by the sea cliff, against the backdrop of the Pacific Ocean.


bitou cape elementary school
Bitou Elementary School
I was thinking it must have been an awesome experience for the kids studying here, with a perfect view of the ocean and the lush green mountain on the other side. The trail starts from the school, skirts along the side of the cape and winds up all the way to the highest point, which is a perfect point to view the ocean, the sea cliffs and the surrounding greenery.


bitou cape
Coastal view along the trail
bitou cape
View near to the top of Bitou Cape
bitou cape

bitou cape introduction
Introduction to Bitou Cape
It took us an hour to reach there and back via the same path.


Miaokou Night Market (廟口夜市)

After the tiring walking in the afternoon at Nanya and Bitou Cape (鼻頭角), everyone was tired. We caught some sleep on the coach, while it brought us back to Keelung city for the Miaokou Night Market (廟口夜市) experience. Miaokou Night Market (廟口夜市) is a very popular attraction in Keelung, for both locals and tourists.


keelung miaokou night market
Keelung Miaokou Night Market (Source: Photo from traveling-bievoormij.blogspot)
keelung miaokou night market

Being close to the harbour, it is not surprising to see many seafood related snacks and food, like grilled squid, crab thick soup, milk crab etc. Other than seafood, there's also the typical sausages, fried chicken, desert and bubble tea stalls. The group of us split up into smaller pockets to explore the night market.


keelung miaokou night market
Fried Chicken
keelung miaokou night market
Chocolate bubble ice
The night market is not as big as the Shilin (士林) in Taipei, and is in a "L" shape orientation, thus very easy to navigate around. After the good food and some shopping in the night market, we boarded the coach, bid farewell to Keelung and headed back to Taipei.


Cashbox (錢櫃) Party World KTV

Well, if you think that's the end of our day after a hectic day in Keelung, you are wrong! We had also planned a KTV session for the young ones. After some rest in our hotel upon return from Keelung, we headed to the multi-storied Cashbox Party World KTV located just beside the Ximen MRT Station (西門站) Exit 3 & 4.


taipei ximending cashbox party world ktv
Cashbox Party World Building (Source: Photo from nettravelx.blogspot)
Upon stepping into the building, I thought I had entered a hotel lobby as the whole place looked posh! It was a weekday, thus the pricing (including drinks and snacks) wasn't too expensive, which we each paid around S$17 for 4 hours singing package. We took the lift up and were brought to a very big room with its own toilet (which made me feel even more like a hotel). The sound system and lighting were good, and the staffs were very friendly as well. We sang till 1am plus, which everyone was really tired. We decided to call it a day and returned back to our hotel.



Follow the links below to the other days of my Taiwan tour:

Day 1: Taipei (Tamsui, Ximending Hot Pot)

Day 2: Keelung (Tianhou Temple @ Peace Island, Zhong Zheng Park, Ershawan Fortification, Bisha Fishing Port, Nanya Rock Formation, Bitou Cape, Miaokou Night Market, Cashbox Party World)

Day 3: Hualien (Jinan Temple, Nan Fang Ao Fishing Harbour, Qingshui Cliff, Qixintan Beach, Hang Rou, Mochi, Fanlin House Minsu)

Day 4: Hualien (Taroko National Park Visitor Centre, Shakadang Trail, Leader Village Taroko, Buluowan Visitor Centre, Tianxiang, Eternal Spring Shrine, Dajili Restaurant, Rainbow Night Market)

Day 5: Taipei (Yilan Cake Factory, Fu Ge Shi Yao Chicken, Shifen & Sky Lantern, Mei Guan Yuan @ Ximending)

Day 6: Wulai (Neidong National Forest Recreation Area, Wulai Old Street, Sun Moon Light Hot Spring, Ding Tai Fung @ Taipei 101, Chia Te Bakery)

Day 7: Taipei (Hsing Tian Gong, Sun Yat-Sen Memorial Hall, Taipei 101, Wufenpu, Shi Da Night Market)

Day 8 & 9: Taipei (Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall, Shin Yeh Restaurant, National Palace Museum, Shilin Night Market)