Sunday, 20 December 2015

The best attractions in Xi'an City (Muslim Street, Drum and Bell Tower, City Wall)

Day 4

Xi'an (西安)

We woke up very early in the morning to prepare for check-out of the hotel, as we need to catch the High Speed Train to Xi'an departing at 7 am. We would be staying in Xi'an for the next 3 nights. The hotel staff helped us to call a taxi to come into the narrow Hutong, so that we do not need to drag our heavy luggage out to the main road. We took the taxi to Beijing West Railway Station (北京西站), and from there depart for Xi'an. Like the High Speed Train we took to Tianjin, it was travelling at an average speed of 300 km/hr as well. The overall journey was close to 6 hours and will stop at around 10 over stations throughout the journey. We slept for most of the train ride, since we were still tired after waking up so early in the morning.

Xi'an (formerly known as Chang'an (长安) before Ming dynasty), along with Beijing, is one of the Four Great Ancient Capitals of China. It was previously the capital of many important ancient Chinese dynasties, such as Zhou, Qin, Han, Sui and Tang. It is also the start point of the famous Silk Road in China. All these have led to the great historical and cultural significance of this city. We reached the Xi'an North Railway Station (西安北站) at around 1pm, from there we collected our pre-booked train tickets to Huashanbei (华山北站) and Beijing for the subsequent days. The Xi'an metro station Bei Kezhan (北客站) is connected to the railway station. As it was built and started operation in 2011, it appears much more modern and spacious than Beijing's subway system. We bought the metro tickets and took the Metro (Line 2) to Zhonglou Zhan (钟楼), where our hotel Bell Tower Hotel (钟楼饭店) is located.


Bell Tower Hotel (钟楼饭店)

The city layout of Xi'an is interesting, as there's a city wall within it. Our hotel Bell Tower Hotel (钟楼饭店) is located approximately the center within the city wall, which is also where many of the commercial activities are located. We had selected Bell Tower Hotel (钟楼饭店) because it is just beside the Zhonglou Zhan (钟楼) metro station and within walking distances to many large shopping malls and other major tourist attractions within the city wall. From the metro station, it was a short walk via the underpass to the hotel. The hotel is located just opposite of the Bell Tower (钟楼), which occupies the center location at the busy roundabout. The room is modern, clean and complete with all basic necessities.

xi'an bell tower hotel
Xi'an Bell Tower Hotel
xi'an bell tower hotel
View of the room
xi'an bell tower hotel
View of the bathroom
By the time we settled down, it was already close to 2pm and we haven't had our lunch yet. We were hungry and left our room for lunch.


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Muslim Street (回民街)

From our hotel, we walked to the famous Muslim Street (回民街). It is a collection of many streets, starting from the Beiyuanman Street (北院门街) located just north of the Drum Tower (鼓楼). This area is known as the Muslim Street (回民街) because majority of the businesses are run by the ethnic Hui people. Since the establishment of the Silk Road, many of the Islamic traders and envoys from Middle East and Central Asia started to visit Xi'an and some eventually settled down here, forming the current Muslim population group here after many generations.

The main Beiyuanman Street (北院门街) consists of 2 rows of shops, mainly selling food, as well as many push carts along the street selling snacks. The popular Xi'an food/snacks that you can find here are the Biang Biang Mian (Biang Biang Noodles), Yang Rou Pao Mo (羊肉泡馍), Rou Jia Mo (肉夹馍), grilled lamb/beef skewers, steamed meat dumplings and dried dates.


xi'an drum tower
Xi'an Drum Tower
xi'an muslim street
Bustling Xi'an Muslim Street (Beiyuanmen Street)
xi'an muslim street biang biang mian noodle
Look at the complex character of "Biang" in red
xi'an muslim street handmade candy
Making of handmade candy
We went to one of restaurant along the street and ordered the Biang Biang Mian and Yang Rou Pao Mo (羊肉泡馍). The Chinese character of "Biang" has so many strokes and is so complex that it is currently not available in the computer. The character "Biang" has no meaning to it, and based on one of the theory, it is associated to the sound made when the chef slaps the noodle dough against the table. The Biang Biang Mian consist of handmade thick noodles, served with meat (which I had ordered lamb), cabbage and tomato, which is tasty and appetising. The Yang Rou Pao Mo (羊肉泡馍) is soup based, served with cellophane noodles, lamb and topped with small pieces of bread.


biang biang mian noodle
Biang Biang Mian
yang rou pao mo
Yang Rou Pao Mo
After lunch, we continued to walk around the area. We turned into the Huajue Alley (化觉巷), which runs adjacent and parallel to the Beiyuanman Street (北院门街). Over here, the street is narrower and less crowded, with most of the shops here selling souvenirs, handicrafts, clothing and decorations. If anyone wants to buy any souvenirs in Xi'an, it is recommended to buy here, as it is cheaper than other tourist areas. Along the way, we also passed by the Great Mosque of Xi'an (西安大清真寺). This is the oldest mosque in China, built during the Tang dynasty. The mosque looks very different from those you would see in the Arab and South East Asian countries, as it is architectural style looks very much like typical ancient Chinese constructions. The visit to the mosque was not in my itinerary due to time constraint, but is recommended for others to visit if time permits.


great mosque of xi'an
Entrance to the Great Mosque of Xi'an
great mosque of xi'an
Introduction to the Great Mosque of Xi'an


Drum Tower (鼓楼)

We turned out from Huajue Alley (化觉巷) and headed to the Drum Tower (鼓楼). We bought the joint tickets that allowed us to visit both Drum Tower (鼓楼) and Bell Tower (钟楼) on the same day. The Drum Tower (鼓楼) and Bell Tower (钟楼) are two iconic historical structures in the city.


xi'an drum bell tower tickets
Joint tickets to Xi'an Drum and Bell Tower
xi'an drum tower
View of street around the Xi'an Drum Tower
Both built during the Ming dynasty, they were used to indicate time in the ancient days. On the second level of the Drum Tower (鼓楼), we could see 24 drums which represent the 24 weather periods used by the ancient Chinese. Within the building, there's a Chinese percussion performance on-going, which we stopped our steps to watch. There's also an exhibition on the different types of Chinese drums from different era and ethnic groups.


xian drum tower introdution
Intro of Xi'an Drum Tower
xi'an drum tower
Rows of drums on display
xi'an drum tower performance
Chinese percussion performance at Xi'an Drum Tower
On the third level, there's another exhibition on the traditional Chinese furniture. We walked out to the balcony corridor, which offered a great view of the surrounding streets and the nearby Drum Tower (鼓楼). After this we made our way to the Bell Tower (钟楼).


xi'an bell tower view from drum tower
View of Bell Tower from the Drum Tower
xi'an drum tower balcony corridor
Balcony corridor at Xi'an Drum Tower


Bell Tower (楼)

There's only one way to access the Bell Tower (钟楼), which is via the underpass around the attraction. Once on the second level, we could see the prominent Jingyun Bell (景雲钟), which is the replica of the actual Tang dynasty era bell that once hung inside the tower.


xi'an bell tower
Xi'an Bell Tower
xi'an yongning gate city wall view from bell tower
View of the Yongning Gate (Xi'an City Wall) at the end of the South Street
xi'an drum tower view from the bell tower
View of the Drum Tower from the Bell Tower
Inside the building, there's a stage for the Bells performance, but we had missed the timing of the performance. Other than this, there's an exhibition showcasing some of the ancient artifacts unearthed in the region dated back to the Han and Tang dynasties. The visit here was relatively shorter than the Drum Tower (鼓楼), which we mainly spent time taking photographs around the tower.


xi'an bell tower performance
Stage for the Bells performance
xi'an bell tower exhibition
An ancient light candle holder on exhibition


Xi'an City Wall (西安城墙)

After we exited the Bell Tower (钟楼), we walked south along the South Street (南大街) towards our next attraction, Xi'an City Wall (西安城墙). The city wall is built during the Ming dynasty, mainly for defense purpose. The wall is around 13.7 km long in total, surrounded by a deep moat. At the end of the South Street (南大街), we crossed the road via the underpass and reached the Yongning Gate (永宁门) of the city wall. We bought the tickets at the ticket office and started climbing up the wall.


xi'an city wall ticket office
Xi'an City Wall ticket office
xi'an city wall entrance tickets
Xi'an City Wall entrance tickets
xi'an city wall yongning gate
Yongning Gate
On top of the wall, one would realised that the width of wall is very wide, so wide that it could allow visitors to tour around the wall by electric car or bicycle. The bicycles can be rented near the Yongning Gate (永宁门), which technically allows visitors to cycle around the entire perimeter if they have the time. On top of the wall, it offers another good view of the city, blended with a mix of ancient Chinese architectures and modern city skyscrapers.


xi'an city wall yongning gate
On top of the city wall (Yongning Gate)
xi'an city wall
View on top of the city wall
xi'an city wall yongning gate
Inner view from the city wall
xi'an city wall yongning gate
Outer view from the city wall, which the moat can be seen
We did not take the electric car nor rented the bicycles, just simply stroll along the wall. Along the way, we could see many different defense features of the wall such as the battlements and watch towers, all with proper Mandarin and English explanations. We rested for a while and enjoyed the sunset view.


xi'an city wall battlement
Explanation of the battlements
xi'an city wall watch tower
Explanation of the watch tower
xi'an city wall sunset
Sunset view on top of the city wall
By the time we returned back to the Yongning Gate (永宁门), it's getting dark and the wall lighted up. The night view of the lighted city wall is beautiful and provides another different experience looking at it. At the gate, there's also a model of the ancient Tang city layout superimposed with the current city layout.


xi'an city wall yongning gate night view
Night view of Yongning Gate
xi'an bell tower view from city wall yongning gate
View of Bell Tower at the end of South Street
xi'an city wall night view
Night time inner view from the city wall
xi'an city wall night view
Night time outer view from the city wall
tang xi'an chang'an city layout
Model of Tang dynasty Xi'an city layout


Defu Alley (德福巷)

It had been a very tiring day, so we decided to end the day by having dinner at the nearby Defu Alley (德福巷), before returning to the hotel. From the main road outside Yongning Gate (永宁门), we had to walk quite deep into the Defu Alley (德福巷) before we could see the rows of pubs and restaurants. This area is very popular among the youngsters for its nightlife. We went into a place called De Fu Lou Coffee & Bar (德福楼) to have our dinner. The whole place is very cozy and well decorated based on European-styled theme.


xi'an defu alley de fu lou coffee & bar
Decorations in De Fu Lou Coffee & Bar
xi'an defu alley de fu lou coffee & bar

xi'an defu alley de fu lou coffee & bar


We ordered Pizza and Pork Cordon Bleu, along with Tsingtao beer and soft drink.


xi'an defu alley de fu lou coffee & bar beverage
Our beverage
xi'an defu alley de fu lou coffee & bar pizza
Pizza
xi'an defu alley de fu lou coffee & bar pork cordon bleu
Pork Cordon Bleu
After the hearty meal, we slowly made our way back to the hotel. Just as we reached the hotel, the brightly decorated Bell Tower (钟楼) caught our attention.


xi'an bell tower night view
Night view of Xi'an Bell Tower



Follow the links below to the other days of my China tour:

Day 1: Beijing (Yonghe Lama Temple, Shizhahai, Prince Gong Mansion, Behai Park, Gui Jie)

Day 2: Beijing (Tiananmen Square, Forbidden City, Old Summer Palace, Wangfujing)

Day 3: Tianjin (Italian Style Town, Nanshi Food Street, Drum Tower, Ancient Cultural Street, Quanjude Peking Roast Duck)

Day 4: Xi'an (Muslim Street, Drum Tower, Bell Tower, Xi'an City Wall, Defu Alley)

Day 5: Xi'an (Terracotta Army Museum, Da Ci'en Temple, Big Wild Goose Pagoda, Tang Paradise)

Day 6: Huashan

Day 7: Beijing (Temple of Heaven, Silk Street)

Day 8: Beijing (Great Wall - Badaling, Ming 13 Tombs - Ding Ling, Shizhahai)

Day 9: Beijing (Summer Palace)


Saturday, 19 December 2015

What to do in a day trip to Tianjin from Beijing

Day 3

Day Trip to Tianjin (天津)

On the third day of our tour, we made a day trip to the city of Tianjin (天津) via the high speed train. Early in the morning, we took the MRT to Beijing South Railway Station (北京南). The MRT station is integrated to the railway station, but once we reached the railway station, it took us some time to navigate around since the whole place is big. We found the ticketing office and bought the 2nd class tickets for the next available timing. (Note that for foreigner, a passport is need to buy the train ticket, which would have your name printed on it). There's a high speed train service to Tianjin every 10 minutes, as such there's no need to pre-book. However at the same counter, we collected our pre-booked high speed train tickets to Xi'an the following day. The railway station is very modern and the boarding process is in order. We need to show our passport along with our tickets before passing through the departure gantry. 


beijing tianjin high speed train

hexiehao high speed train
High Speed Train - He Xie Hao
This was the first time I traveled on a high speed train. The train is modern, clean and the leg space is reasonable. The journey to Tianjin took 33 minutes and traveled at an average speed of 300 km/hr. The train terminated at the Tianjin Railway Station (天津站), which is integrated to its Metro System. We switched to the Metro Line 2 and rode for 1 station to the Jianguodao Station (建国道).



Italian Style Town (意大利风情旅游区)

Getting out of the Jianguodao Station (建国道), I could immediately sense the difference here, which the area was less crowded compared to Beijing in terms of people and vehicles. One could also easily noticed the difference in the architectural designs of the buildings around, which many of them in European style. Tianjin used to be the place where the former concession territories were ceded to the Great Powers during the late Qing dynasty. These Great Powers then build buildings based their own style on these areas. The Concession areas are mainly located around the banks of Haihe River (海河). The first attraction I would visit, Italian Style Town (意大利风情旅游区), is basically the former Italian Concession. It is only a short walk south of the Jianguodao Station (建国道). Most of the European style buildings here are converted into western restaurants, bars, Gelato and boutique shops.


tianjin italian style town european
European Style Building
tianjin italian style town sculpture
European Style Sculpture
tianjin italian style town
Italian Style Town street view
tianjin italian style town
Italian Style Town
tianjin italian style town marco polo
Statue of Marco Polo
In the center, we could see the Marco Polo Square. We took some photos around the area and also visited a few shops.


tianjin italian style town marco polo square
Marco Polo Square
tianjin italian style town dante square
Dante Square
tianjin italian style town
Entrance to a small street
tianjin italian style town
Boutique Shops
tianjin italian style town european
European Style Building
We did not spent too much time here, as the area is not very big and it's too early for lunch. We crossed the bridge over Haihe River (海河) and made a slow walk towards the Nanshi Food Street (南市食品街).


Nanshi Food Street (南市食品街)

Although it is termed as a food street, but in fact, what we saw is a 2 storey air-conditioned building.


tianjin nanshi food street
Nanshi Food Street
Inside, we could see the "street" filled with stalls selling all sorts of snacks. On the side of the streets are many Chinese restaurants and snack stores. There's also a MacDonald's fast food at one of the corner. Some of the famous Tianjin snacks sold here are the Gobuli Bun (狗不理包子), Fried Dough Twist 'Mahua' (麻花) and the Ear Hole Fried Cake 'Erduoyan Zhagao' (耳朵眼炸糕). We went to a restaurant and had Zhajiangmian (炸酱面). We actually wanted to order the Gobuli Bun (狗不理包子) as well, but it came with an minimum order of around 8-10 pieces. Thinking that it might be too much us, we decided not to order the buns. After the lunch, we had a short walk around the place before we set off to the Drum Tower (鼓楼) north of Nanshi Food Street (南市食品街).


Drum Tower (鼓楼)

The Drum Tower (鼓楼) was originally built in the Ming dynasty, then later destroyed during the Cultural Revolution and rebuilt again in recent years. Now it actually houses bells instead of drums.


tianjin drum tower south street
Entrance to Gulou South Street towards Drum Tower
tianjin drum tower
Tianjin Drum Tower
When we were there, it wasn't open for visit. As such, we only walked around the tower to take pictures. Around the tower, it's like a flea market where many vendors laid their merchandise on the ground. We did not spend too much time here and decided to go to our next destination. From the east side of the tower, we walk towards the Gulou East Street. Along the street, there are many shops selling antiques, furniture, calligraphy brushes, jewelry, souvenirs, and clothing. There are also restaurants and tea houses along the way. At the end of the street, we will pass by a Wen Miao Museum (文庙博物馆) honoring Confucius, which is also the best preserved ancient building in Tianjin. After this, another short walk brought us to the next destination, the Ancient Cultural Street (古文化街).


Ancient Cultural Street (古文化街)

This is another popular tourist attraction. The buildings along the streets are modeled after the Qing dynasty architectural style, which makes us feel like going back to the ancient time when walking around the area.


tianjin ancient cultural street
Southern entrance to the Ancient Cultural Street
tianjin ancient cultural street
Ancient Cultural Street View
tianjin ancient cultural street
Building of Qing Architectural Style
tianjin ancient cultural street
Center of the Ancient Cultural Street
There are again shops selling tea sets, handicrafts, paintings, Chinese calligraphy accessories, souvenirs, boutique clothing, along with restaurants, snack stores, traditional tea houses and modern cafes. We started touring from the south entrance. The notable places in the area include the Tian Hou Palace (天后宫), dedicated to the goddess Mazu (妈祖), and the Clay Figure Zhang (泥人张) store, which sells traditional colourful clay figurines (a famous artwork in Tianjin).


tianjin tianhou palace
Tian Hou Palace at Ancient Cultural Street
We exited the place through the north entrance. We rested around the area and had bubble tea before we set off to return to Beijing. We strolled in the south direction along Dongma Road (东马路), towards the Dongnanjiao Station (东南角). Along the way, we could also find big shopping malls by the side. From Dongnanjiao Station (东南角), we took the Metro to Tianjin Railway Station (天津站), bought the train tickets and returned to Beijing by the high speed train. Overall, we had spent around 5 hours in Tianjin.


Quanjude Peking Roast Duck (全聚德 北京鸭烤)

Once we reached Beijing, we took the MRT to Qianmen Station (前门), where we headed to eat Quanjude (全聚德) Peking Roast Duck for the dinner. Peking Roast Duck is a must try dish while in Beijing, and it is also a national dish in China, where it is often served to foreign dignitaries during state banquets. Quanjude (全聚德) is the number one brand when it comes to Peking Roast Duck, having numerous branches within Beijing and other cities in China. From Qianmen Station (前门), we walked towards the Qianmen Street (前门大街), which is very long and wide pedestrian only street. Along the street are many restaurants and international boutique outlets, which the Quanjude (全聚德) Qianmen (前门) branch is one of it.


quanjude qianmen branch
Quanjude Qianmen Branch
The Qianmen (前门) branch is actually the original Quanjude (全聚德) store, thus we could expect a lot of crowd. When we reached the store, we were told that we have to wait up to 1.5 hours! We took the queue number and walked around the Qianmen Street (前门大街) first, before coming back to the store. By the time our queue number was called, it was already around 8pm and we were really hungry.


quanjude history
History of Quanjude
quanjude qianmen kitchen
View of the Kitchen
quanjude qianmen
Interior view of the restaurant
We ordered half a duck and after some time, a chef pushed a cart with the hot roasted duck beside our table. He would sliced the duck in front of us and present the meat on the plate.

quanjude slicing peking roast duck
Chef slicing the Peking Roast Duck
quanjude sliced peking roast duck
Sliced Peking Roast Duck with the Pancake
The staff was very friendly and he showed us the correct way of eating the dish by wrapping the thin slices of meat and the sweet bean sauce with the pancake. The thin slice of duck meat with the roasted skin was really juicy and tasty. The long wait for this dish was worthwhile. If we do order one whole duck, they will issue a certificate, but not for half a duck. After the dinner, it was already late. We went back to Qianmen Station (前门), took the MRT and back to our hotel.



Follow the links below to the other days of my China tour: